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by Ken Zinns

After taking a few wine courses through UC Extension in the early '90s, Bay Area architect Ken Zinns developed a serious interest wine. Ken has been touring and tasting wines for nearly 20 years, and has come to love not only the wines, but also the people behind them. Ken's interest in wine is more than passive, and he's been working at several urban East Bay wineries since 2001, and is the assistant winemaker for both Eno Wines in Berkeley and Harrington Wine in San Francisco.

Rhone Rangers – 2012
15th Annual San Francisco Wine Tasting

Report on the 15th annual wine tasting presented by the Rhone Rangers, on Saturday & Sunday, March 24-25, 2012, at Fort Mason in San Francisco. The event focuses on current releases of Rhône-varietal wines from member wineries in the United States.

This year’s event included two tasting seminars on Saturday afternoon and a winemaker dinner and auction on Saturday evening. Sunday featured a morning tasting seminar followed by the Grand Tasting and silent auction in the afternoon. I was not able to attend the seminars this year, so the tasting notes below are all from the Grand Tasting.

The Rhone Rangers organization is a non-profit group, which promotes the enjoyment of Rhône-varietal wines produced in the United States. Although the term "Rhone Rangers" has been used since the 1980s to describe some of the early champions of Rhône-style wines in the US, the organization itself was not founded until 1997. There are now nearly 200 wineries from California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Michigan, and Virginia that are members of the Rhone Rangers.

Grand Tasting impressions:

Many well-known American producers of Rhône varieties poured their wines at the Sunday Grand Tasting. There were over 110 wineries pouring, a good representation of the group’s members. As is always the case in larger tasting events, there were a few notable wineries that have poured in the past but were missing this year, a few returning after being absent last year, and some intriguing newcomers.

Some Favorites


WHITES & ROSÉS

Beckmen 2010 Grenache Rosé
Curtis 2010 Viognier
Domaine de la Terre Rouge 2009 “Enigma”
Folin 2011 Viognier
Jemrose 2010 Viognier
Lagier Meredith 2011 Rosé of Syrah
Martian 2011 Grenache Rosé “Down to Earth”
Quivira 2011 Rosé
Qupé 2009 Roussanne
Sanglier 2011 Rosé
Truchard 2010 Roussanne

REDS

Andrew Murray 2009 “Espérance”
Beckmen 2009 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Syrah
Holly’s Hill 2009 Mourvèdre “Classique”
Jemrose 2009 Syrah
Lagier Meredith 2009 Mondeuse
Petrichor 2009 “Les Trois”
Quivira 2009 “Elusive”
Qupé 2009 “Sonnie’s” Syrah
Sanglier 2009 “Boar’s Camp”
Skinner 2010 Grenache
Skylark 2008 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Syrah

The event organizers once again did a fine job with the layout of winery and food tables throughout the large exhibition hall, so there was plenty of room to circulate and it was not hard to squeeze in at even the more busy tables. The layout made it easy to navigate amongst all the tables, given the alphabetical layout of producers and clear identification signage at each table. I’m not sure whether the attendance was up or down from last year, but the hall did not seem overly crowded. The event was very well-organized and everything from start to finish went smoothly.

The Rhone Rangers tasting always features lots of tempting food and beverage purveyors – and this year’s event was no exception, with over 25 tables – but for the most part I stayed disciplined and focused on the wines. I did work up an appetite by the end of the tasting though, so I was glad to see “The Chairman” (formerly “Chairman Bao”) food truck strategically parked outside the exhibition hall at the end of the day. I wolfed down a very tasty pork belly and pickled daikon steamed bao – it was so good that it was tough not to go back and order another one (or two).

I stuck with my practice of recent years in not trying to taste whites and rosés first and then going back for the reds. Despite some drawbacks, I do think I use my time more efficiently this way, and as I’ve noted before, interspersing tastes of some lighter and higher-acid white wines amongst the big, tannic reds serves as a good palate refresher, too. Of course there were still a number of producers’ tables I’d hoped to taste at but didn’t make it to this year, but such is the nature of large tasting events held over a limited time.

Nearly all of the wineries pouring at the event were from California, though there were also a few from the Pacific Northwest. I tried to visit a mixture of “tried and true” producers and newer or less familiar producers at the tasting. Many past favorites – including Beckmen, Jemrose, Lagier Meredith, Qupé, and Skylark – continued to present impressive wines. A few of the more established producers – such as Curtis and Quivira – look to be on the upswing. And several newer wineries – Petrichor, Sanglier, and Skinner among them – showed that they will be worth watching. 

I found more noteworthy Rosé wines at this year’s Rhone Rangers tasting than has been the case in past years. I think that more wineries are treating Rosé as a “serious” wine these days, not just as a byproduct of bleeding off their reds. And there was a lot of diversity among my favorite reds of the tasting – more Syrahs than any other variety but including a number of other varieties and interesting blends too. In fact, diversity was a key to this Rhone Rangers tasting – there were lots of wine styles on display, a result both of vineyard sources all over California (and Oregon too), and of different winemaking philosophies and methods. For Rhône-style wine lovers, this really is an event not to be missed.

Selected Tasting Notes

Andrew Murray Vineyards

Andrew Murray 2010 “RGB,” Camp 4 Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley. 50% each Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Light color, stone fruit, apple and lees aromas. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and a smooth finish.

Andrew Murray 2009 “Espérance,” Central Coast.
60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre. Medium color, displaying black cherry fruit, pepper, dried herbs, and lots of spice. Lively mouthfeel, with medium tannins, nice.

Andrew Murray 2010 Syrah, Watch Hill Vineyard, Santa Barbara County.
Medium-dark color, this had dark berry fruit, pepper, and earth on the nose. Fairly big and structured with grippy tannins.

Andrew Murray 2009 Grenache, Terra Bella Vineyard, Paso Robles.
A little Syrah blended in. Medium color, with brighter red fruits and spicy oak on the nose. Richer on the palate with a big tannic finish.

Anglim Winery

Anglim 2010 Viognier, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley. Light color, this had bright stone fruit and tropical fruit aromas. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity.

Anglim 2008 “Cameo,” Central Coast.
78% Viognier, 15% Grenache Blanc, 7% Roussanne. Light color, with stone fruit and pear, lees, and a floral note. Richer mouthfeel than the Viognier, with a smooth finish.

Anglim 2011 Rosé, Paso Robles.
Made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Viognier. Medium-light pink color, showing strawberry and spice notes. Fairly light-bodied, with medium acidity and a pleasant finish.

Anglim 2008 Mourvèdre, Hastings Ranch, Paso Robles.
Medium-light garnet color, displaying earthy black cherry and dried herbs on the nose. Medium-bodied with a bright mouthfeel and tangy finish.

Beckmen Vineyards

Beckmen 2010 “Le Bec Blanc,” Santa Ynez Valley. 55% Marsanne, 19% Roussanne, 16% Grenache Blanc, 10% Viognier, made mostly in neutral oak. Light straw color, with bright tangerine and stone fruit aromas, plus a leesy note. Lively mouthfeel and finish.

Beckmen 2010 Grenache Rosé, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley. Light pink color, featuring fresh strawberry fruit, herbs, and a touch of spice. Lighter-bodied, bright and crisp, this had a refreshing finish, nice.

Beckmen 2009 Grenache, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley. 20% Syrah, aged in 300-liter barrels, 10% new. Medium color, showing black cherry, black pepper and dried herbs. Lively and structured, this finished with fairly grippy tannins.

Beckmen 2009 Syrah, Purisima Mountain Vineyard,
Santa Ynez Valley. No whole-cluster fermentation, all destemmed fruit. Dark color, aromas of flowers, grilled meat, pepper, and spice along with blackberry fruit. Medium-full bodied with big but refined tannins, nice.

Beckmen 2009 Syrah, “Block Six,” Purisima Mountain Vineyard,
Santa Ynez Valley. Dark color, this displayed black fruits, spice, and oak on the nose, along with a minerally note. Big but juicy mouthfeel, with a chewy tannic finish.

Comments
: Winemaker Mikael Sigouin was behind the table pouring the Beckmen wines, which remain among the best Rhône-style wines produced in Santa Barbara County.

Curtis Winery

Curtis 2010 Viognier, Santa Barbara County. Sourced entirely from estate fruit, made in stainless steel with about 50% malolactic fermentation. Light straw color, with floral and bright stone fruit aromas. Lively mouthfeel with a slightly mineral note, this had a crisp and refreshing finish, nice.

Curtis 2010 “Heritage Blanc,” Santa Barbara County. 60% Viognier, 40% Roussanne, aged for one year in 3-5 year-old barrels. Slightly darker color, with stone fruit, spice, and a touch of oak on the nose. This had a rich mouthfeel balanced by firm acidity, with a slightly rough finish that should smooth out with more bottle age.

Curtis 2011 “Heritage Rosé,” Santa Barbara County. Made from 38% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 20% Cinsault, 12% Syrah, all from saignée. Very light pink color, aromatic ripe red berry fruit and flowers, medium-light bodied with a fairly smooth mouthfeel and finish.

Curtis 2009 “Heritage Cuvée,” Santa Barbara County. 39% Grenache, 26% Mourvèdre, 16% Syrah, 19% Cinsault. Medium color, showing black cherry and plum, earth, and spice. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and milder tannins.

Curtis 2009 Grenache, Santa Barbara County. About 10% Syrah. Medium-light color, this featured strawberry, spice, and pepper aromas. Lively mouthfeel with a moderately tannic finish.

Curtis 2009 Syrah, Santa Barbara County.
Dark color, displaying riper dark berry fruit, coffee, spice, and vanilla/oak. Richer mouthfeel with chewy tannins on the finish.

Comments
: Another solid showing for the Curtis wines, which look to be heading in a good direction in recent years.

Derby Wine Estates

Derby 2007 Counoise, Derby Vineyard, Paso Robles. 100% Counoise. Medium-light color, floral aromas with spicy oak and red fruits in the background. Medium-bodied with milder tannins.

Derby 2007 Syrah, Derby Vineyard, Paso Robles.
Medium-dark color with dark fruit, pepper, and spice. Richer mouthfeel with moderate tannins on the finish.

Derby 2008 Grenache, Derby Vineyard, Paso Robles.
100% Grenache. Medium color, with ripe red fruits, a touch of pepper, and loads of spice. Medium-bodied and lively on the palate with a big, grippy finish.

Derby 2007 Petite Sirah, Laura’s Vineyard, Paso Robles.
Very dark color, featuring blackberry and blueberry fruit, mocha, and spice on the nose. Rich and full-bodied, with a chewy tannic finish.

Domaine de la Terre Rouge

Terre Rouge 2010 Grenache Blanc, Sierra Foothills. Light color, somewhat shy aromas of apple and pear. Medium-light bodied, with crisp acidity and a clean finish.

Terre Rouge 2009 “Enigma,” Sierra Foothills.
44% Marsanne, 29% Viognier, 27% Roussanne. Medium-light yellow color, this displayed honey and floral notes along with ripe stone fruit. Medium-rich texture with good acidity and long finish, nice.

Terre Rouge 2009 Roussanne, Monarch Mine Vineyard, Sierra Foothills.
Medium-light yellow color, with stone fruit, lees, earth, and spice aromas. Somewhat richer on the palate than the “Enigma,” with a smooth finish.

Terre Rouge 2009 Vin Gris, Sierra Foothills.
Made from 66% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and 4% Syrah. Light salmon color, featuring red fruits and lots of spice. Medium-light bodied with moderate acidity and a pleasant finish.

Folin Cellars

Folin 2011 Viognier, Folin Vineyard, Rogue Valley, Oregon. Light straw color, aromas of stone fruits with a slight floral note. Fairly crisp mouthfeel and finish, nice.

Folin 2008 Syrah, Folin Vineyard, Rogue Valley, Oregon.
Dark color, with spicy and savory black fruits, plus a touch of black pepper. Medium-bodied and quite lively on the palate, with moderate tannins.

Folin 2009 “Misceo,” Folin Vineyard, Rogue Valley, Oregon.
50% Syrah, 37% Mourvèdre, 13% Grenache. Medium-dark color, this showed more plummy fruit with spice and mineral notes. Nice texture in the mouth, with medium tannins.

Folin 2010 Petite Sirah, Folin Vineyard, Rogue Valley, Oregon.
Dark color, displaying herbal dark berry fruit and spice. Big and structured, with a grippy finish.

Comments
: Folin is one of the few American producers using Vino-Lok glass closures for their wines. The Viognier was the standout of their line-up.

Frick Winery

Frick 2009 Counoise, Owl Hill Vineyard, Estate, Dry Creek Valley. Medium-light color, red fruits and spice with a distinct floral component. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and tannins.

Frick 2008 Cinsaut, Dry Creek Valley.
Medium color, with tart red fruit, spice, and vanilla/oak on the nose. Medium weight on the palate with a bigger structure than the Counoise and grippier tannins.

Frick 2008 “C2,” North Coast.
60% Carignane, 40% Cinsaut. Medium color, this featured more earthy and smoky aromas along with black cherry and a touch of pepper. Livelier mouthfeel than the first two wines, with chewy tannins on the finish.

Frick 2008 “C3,” North Coast.
60% Carignane, 30% Cinsaut, 10% Counoise. Medium color, showing plum and blueberry, smoke, herbs, and a touch of oak. Bigger on the palate, with a grippy tannic finish.

Comments
: Frick poured some red varietals and blends you don’t see too often. A bit on the rustic side, but intriguing and different.

Halter Ranch Vineyard

Halter Ranch 2011 “Côtes de Paso Blanc,” Paso Robles. 33% Grenache Blanc, 26% Roussanne, 20% Picpoul, 12% Marsanne, 9% Viognier. Made entirely from estate fruit. Very light color, a bit floral with green apple, tangerine, and a touch of spice on the nose. Medium-bodied with a round mouthfeel and finish.

Halter Ranch 2009 “Côtes de Paso,” Paso Robles.
41% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 19% Mourvèdre, 11% Tannat, 6% Counoise, 3% Cinsault. Made entirely from estate fruit. Medium color, featuring plummy, spicy aromas along with an earthy note. Medium weight and fairly lively on the palate, with moderate tannins.

Holly’s Hill Vineyards

Holly’s Hill 2010 “Patriarche Blanc,” El Dorado. 57% Roussanne, 29% Grenache Blanc, 14% Viognier, made in neutral oak with no malolactic fermentation. Light color, with floral and peach aromas. Medium-light bodied with a lively texture and finish.

Holly’s Hill 2010 Roussanne, Estate, El Dorado.
Medium-light straw color, this displayed stone fruit, minerals, and a touch of spice on the nose. Richer texture than the previous wine but with good acidity and long finish.

Holly’s Hill 2010 Counoise, Estate, El Dorado.
2% Petite Sirah. Medium color, showing floral notes plus higher-toned red fruit, and a touch of spicy oak. Medium-light bodied, this finished with milder tannins.

Holly’s Hill 2009 Grenache, Estate, El Dorado.
Medium-light color, with aromas of bright red fruits, herbs, and earth. Medium weight on the palate with a moderately tannic finish.

Holly’s Hill 2009 Mourvèdre “Classique,” El Dorado.
Medium color, featuring earthy plum and darker berry fruit, pepper, and iron. Medium-bodied and richer than the Grenache, this had very good structure and medium tannins, nice.

Holly’s Hill 2009 “Patriarche,” El Dorado.
60% Mourvèdre, 23% Syrah, 14% Grenache, 3% Counoise. Medium color, slightly floral aromas along with earth, dried herbs, and spice. Medium-full bodied with fairly big but refined tannins.

Comments
: Holly’s Hill continues to be one of the top producers of Rhône-style wines from the Sierra Foothills.

Jemrose Vineyards

Jemrose 2010 Viognier, Egret Pond Vineyard, Bennett Valley. Madein stainless steel and neutral oak with no malolactic fermentation. Very light straw color, with citrus and stone fruit aromas plus a slight floral note. Medium-light weight on the palate with bright acidity and a clean finish, nice.

Jemrose 2009 Grenache, Foggy Knoll Vineyard, Bennett Valley.
5% Syrah, aged in 10% new oak. Medium color, featuring red fruits, spice, pepper. Medium-light bodied, with a lively mouthfeel and big, grippy tannins.

Jemrose 2009 Syrah, Cardiac Hill Vineyard, Bennett Valley.
3% co-fermented Viognier, 30% whole-cluster fermentation, aged in 30% new oak. Medium-dark color, pretty floral aromatics along with dark berry fruit, bacon, spice, and minerals. Medium-full bodied with good structure and a lively but tannic finish, nice.

Jemrose 2009 “Gloria’s Gem,” Bennett Valley.
65% Syrah, 35% Merlot. Dark color, with black cherry and plum fruit, pepper, herbs, and vanilla/oak on the nose. Richer on the palate, with fairly big tannins.

Comments
: Jemrose owners Jim and Gloria Mack poured their wines at the event. Russell Bevan took over from Michael Browne and Shane Finley as the Jemrose winemaker last year. Their Viognier has been a consistent favorite, and overall, this was among the strongest group of wines at the tasting.

Lagier Meredith Vineyard

Lagier Meredith 2011 Rosé of Syrah, Mount Veeder. Whole-cluster pressed, no malolactic fermentation, aged in neutral oak. Light pink color, with strawberry and citrus aromas, bright acidity and a crisp finish, nice.

Lagier Meredith 2009 Syrah, Mount Veeder.
Medium-dark color, displaying dark berry fruit, pepper, and a savory/herbal note. Medium-bodied and very lively on the palate, with moderate tannins.

Lagier Meredith 2009 Mondeuse, Mount Veeder.
Medium-dark color, this showed floral and mineral notes, spice, and wild berry fruit. Big and structured but with surprisingly refined tannins.

Comments
: As expected, Steve Lagier and Carole Meredith poured some impressive wines. What I didn’t expect was that I felt the Mondeuse edged out their fine Syrah at this tasting.

Martian Ranch & Vineyard

Martian 2011 Grenache Blanc, “Mother Ship,” Santa Barbara County. Made in stainless steel and neutral oak. Light color, featuring leesy apple and spice aromas. Medium-light body with moderate acidity on the finish.

Martian 2011 Grenache Rosé, “Down to Earth,” Santa Barbara County.
Light pink color, bright aromas of strawberry fruit with savory and herbal notes. Medium-light body and lively on the palate, with a clean finish, nice.

Martian 2011 Grenache, “Ground Control,” Santa Barbara County.
100% whole-cluster fermented, with partial carbonic maceration. Medium color, this displayed higher-toned red fruits and a stemmy/herbal component. Medium-bodied with moderately grippy tannins.

Martian 2009 Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley.
Medium-dark color, showing blackberry, pepper, and spice on the nose. Lively mouthfeel with moderate tannins.

Comments
: No, space aliens have not landed – the Martian name is a combination of the names of owner Nan Helgeland’s sons Martin and Ian. The 2011 wines are the first releases from the biodynamically-farmed estate vineyard near Los Alamos. Michael Roth is the winemaker, and this could be a label to watch in the coming years.



Petrichor Vineyards

Petrichor 2009 “Les Trois,” Estate, Sonoma County. 86% Syrah, 14% Grenache. Medium-dark color, with aromas of plum and darker fruits, herbs, earth, and black pepper. Bright acidity on the palate, this had a lively, tangy finish with medium tannins, nice.

Petrichor 2010 “Les Trois,” Estate, Sonoma County.
85% Syrah, 15% Grenache. Medium-dark color, this displayed darker fruits along with more spice and minerals than the 2009. Similar mouthfeel and finish to the 2009, both very good wines that should age well.

Comments: Why “Les Trois” when the wines contain only two grape varieties? The name refers to both Syrah clones included – 877 and 470 – plus Alban clone Grenache. The wines, made by Duncan Meyers of Arnot-Roberts, were very good, and it will be worth keeping an eye on this label.

Quady North

Quady North 2011 “Pistoleta,” Rogue Valley, Southern Oregon. Equal blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier. Light color, showing ripe tropical fruit with a slight floral note. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and a smooth finish.

Quady North 2011 Rosé, Rogue Valley, Southern Oregon.
Made from 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Very light pink color, this displayed bright fresh strawberry and spice on the nose. Lively mouthfeel and crisp finish, nice.

Quady North 2010 “Bomba,” Rogue Valley, Southern Oregon.
75% Grenache, 25% Syrah. Medium color, very aromatic with ripe red fruits, spice, and vanilla/oak. Medium-bodied with moderate tannins.

Quady North 2008 Syrah, “4-2,A,” Rogue Valley, Southern Oregon.
100% Syrah, sourced from five vineyards. Medium-dark color, with dark berry fruit, dried herbs, pepper, and a savory note. Moderately rich on the palate with grippier tannins.

Quivira Vineyards & Winery

Quivira 2011 Rosé, North Coast. Made from 55% Mourvèdre, plus Grenache, Syrah, Carignane, and Counoise. All specially picked and crushed/pressed for Rosé, no saignée. Light salmon color, aromas of red fruits with an herbal note. Light and crisp on the palate with a clean finish, nice.

Quivira 2009 Grenache, Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley.
100% Grenache. Medium color, with black cherry, herbs, and a touch of black pepper on the nose. Medium-bodied with a lively mouthfeel and moderate tannins.

Quivira 2009 “Elusive,” Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley.
55% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Medium-dark color, featuring lots of black pepper and a savory/herbal component along with plum and berry fruit, plus a touch of spice. Richer on the palate but still bright, this finished with medium tannins.

Quivira 2009 Mourvèdre, Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley.
12% Grenache. Medium-dark color, with earthy black cherry, plum, and dried herb aromas. Nicely structured, this had fairly firm tannins on the finish.

Quivira 2009 Petite Sirah, Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley.
100% Petite Sirah. Dark color, showing black fruits, dark chocolate, and pepper. Big and structured, this had a grippy tannic finish.

Comments
: Winemaker Hugh Chappelle poured the Quivira wines, which are becoming some of the best Rhône-style wines from Dry Creek Valley. Estate vineyard Wine Creek Ranch is farmed biodynamically and Demeter-certified.

Qupé

Qupé 2009 Roussanne, Bien Nacido Hillside Estate, Santa Maria Valley. Medium-light yellow, stone fruit, honey, and spice on the nose. Very nice texture on the palate with a lively finish, nice.

Qupé 2010 Grenache, Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, Edna Valley.
Medium color, with aromas of game, red fruits, black pepper, fresh herbs, and clove. Medium-bodied and lively, this finished with moderate tannins, nice.

Ethan 2009 Grenache, Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, Edna Valley.
Medium color, showing riper and more upfront cherry fruit than the previous wine, along with a savory/herbal component. A bit smoother in the mouth with medium tannins.

Qupé 2009 Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley.
Dark color, this displayed grilled meat, black fruits, herbs, and pepper. Richer mouthfeel than the Grenache, with a grippier finish.

Qupé 2009 Syrah, Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, Edna Valley.
Slightly lighter color than the Bien Nacido bottling, featuring brighter aromas of plum, black pepper, and herbs, with a slight floral note. Medium-bodied with good acidity and firm tannins, nice.

Qupé 2009 “Sonnie’s” Syrah, Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, Edna Valley.
The “Sonnie’s” bottling is from both a vineyard and barrel selection, and features more whole-cluster fermentation and more new Hermitage barrels. Medium-dark color, with more stemmy/herbal character than the previous wine, along with dark fruits, a savory, meaty component, and black pepper. Bright mouthfeel with good structure for aging, very nice.

No Limit 2008 Syrah, Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, Edna Valley.
Made by Ethan Lindquist. Dark color, showing riper and more forward black fruits, spice, pepper, and more evident vanilla/oak. Richer body with refined tannins.

Comments
: Bob and Ethan Lindquist poured an excellent group of wines, once again among the standout producers at this event.

Sanglier Cellars

Sanglier 2011 Rosé, Sonoma County. Made from Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Carignane. Light salmon color, this displayed floral strawberry aromas along with a slight savory note. Bright and clean mouthfeel with a crisp finish, nice.

Sanglier 2009 “Boar’s Camp,” Kick Ranch, Sonoma County.
65% Syrah, 21% Grenache, 14% Cinsault. Medium color, with meaty and peppery components plus dark berry fruit, earth, and herbs. Very lively on the palate, nicely structured with medium-big tannins on the finish, nice.

Sanglier 2009 Syrah, Kemp Vineyard, Sonoma County.
Medium-dark color, this was more fruit-forward with riper blackberry, spice, and some vanilla/oak on the nose. Richer mouthfeel with fairly grippy tannins.

Sanglier 2009 “Rouge du Tusque,” Sonoma County.
49% Syrah, 33% Petite Sirah, 18% Grenache. Dark color, featuring plum and darker berry fruit, dark chocolate, and oak. Big and rich, with a firmly tannic finish.

Comments
: Sanglier is French for “wild boar,” so it’s fitting that some of the wine names refer to them. Russell Bevan was the winemaker up to the 2010 vintage – owner Glenn Alexander and John Raytek of Ceritas now make the wines. Sanglier was one of the discoveries of the event for me.

Skinner Vineyards

Skinner 2010 Grenache Blanc, El Dorado. Light color, showing stone fruit aromas with a slightly earthy note. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and a smooth finish.

Skinner 2009 “Seven Generations,” El Dorado.
Blend of mainly Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier, plus a little Picpoul and Grenache Blanc. Light color, with pear and stone fruit on the nose, plus a touch of spice. Richer than the Grenache Blanc, this had a pleasant and fairly lively finish.

Skinner 2010 Grenache, El Dorado.
Medium-light color, this featured herbal and earthy red fruits along with a touch of spicy oak. Medium-light weight in the mouth, with good acidity and moderate tannins, nice.

Skinner 2010 Mourvèdre, El Dorado.
Medium color, aromas of earthy plum, dried herbs, iron, and a touch of pepper. Medium-bodied with a lively mouthfeel and bigger tannins than the Grenache, nice.

Skinner 2009 “Eighteen Sixty-One,” El Dorado.
GSM blend. Medium-dark color, this displayed a darker fruit profile along with a touch of earth and more noticeable vanilla/oak. Bigger on the palate, with fairly aggressive tannins.

Skinner 2009 Syrah, El Dorado.
Medium-dark color, with dark berry fruit, vanilla/oak, and a big clove/spice component. Rich mouthfeel with a grippy tannic finish.

Comments
: A relatively new and promising winery in the Fair Play area, Skinner’s Grenache and Mourvèdre in particular showed very well.

Skylark Wine Company

Skylark 2009 “Red Belly,” North Coast. 40% Carignane, 40% Syrah, 20% Grenache. Medium color, bright black cherry aromas with touches of spice and flowers, medium-bodied and juicy on the palate, fairly smooth finish, nice.

Skylark 2009 Grenache, Mendocino County.
Blended with a little Syrah from Alder Springs Vineyard. Medium garnet color, with herbal, savory notes along with black cherry and plum. Fairly lively on the palate with medium tannins.

Skylark 2009 “Las Aves,” Mendocino County.
42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carignane, 25% Syrah, 8% Grenache. Medium-dark color, the Cabernet-like cassis component took the aromatic lead, with darker fruit, earth, and oak in the background. Bright acidity in the mouth, with a moderately grippy finish.

Skylark 2007 Syrah, Unti Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley.
Sourced from a biodynamic vineyard block. Medium-dark color, this showed more oak on the nose, along with blackberry and spice. Richer mouthfeel with medium-big tannins.

Skylark 2008 Syrah, Rodgers Creek Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
About 30% whole-cluster fermentation. Dark color, displaying savory aromas of grilled meat, spice, black pepper, and blackberry. Big but lively on the palate, this finished with grippy tannins. Very nice cool-climate Syrah.

Comments
: This was another strong showing for Skylark. The 2009 “Red Belly” was a step above the usual basic red blend, while the new “Las Aves” blend, which vintner John Lancaster told us is inspired by the wines of Priorat, was quite distinctive. The Rodgers Creek Syrah, a longtime favorite of mine, was a standout once again.

Truchard Vineyards

Truchard 2010 Roussanne, Estate, Carneros, Napa Valley. 30% malolactic fermentation, 20% new oak. Light yellow color, stone fruit and honey aromas along with a touch of spice. Fairly rich texture on the palate with a smooth but lively finish, nice.

Truchard 2009 Syrah, Estate, Carneros, Napa Valley.Medium-dark color, with plum and darker berry fruit with hints of black pepper and spice. Medium-bodied with moderately grippy tannins.

Comments: Truchard is one of those wineries that’s been around for years and thus sometimes overlooked in the excitement over newer producers, but they continue to make solid wines. Both the wines they poured are made from 100% estate fruit.

Two Shepherds Vineyards

Two Shepherds 2010 Grenache Blanc, Saarloos Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley.Very light straw color, with spiced apple aromas. Medium-light bodied with a pleasant and fairly smooth finish.

Two Shepherds 2010 “MRV,” Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley.
47% Marsanne, 47% Roussanne, 6% Viognier. Light color, showing stone fruit and tropical fruit and a touch of spice. Richer mouthfeel than the Grenache Blanc, with moderate acidity.

Two Shepherds 2010 “Syrah/Mourvèdre,” Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley.
50% each Syrah and Mourvèdre. Medium color, this featured earthy and somewhat funky plum fruit, vanilla/oak, and lots of baking spice on the nose. Medium-bodied with moderate tannins on the finish.

Two Shepherds 2010 “GSM,” Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley.
50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Mourvèdre. Medium color, with aromas of black cherry, plum, earth, and herbs. Medium weight on the palate with somewhat grippier tannins.

Wrath Wines

Wrath 2010 Syrah, “Ex Anima,” Monterey.100% Syrah, all from estate fruit, 30% whole-cluster fermentation, made in stainless steel and neutral oak. Medium-dark color, savory and herbal plummy fruit with earthy overtones. Lively mouthfeel and finish.

Wrath 2010 Syrah, “3 Clone,” Monterey.
From 877, Noir, and 174 clones. Medium-dark color, showing darker berry fruit, spice, and dried herbs on the nose. Richer on the palate, with fairly mild tannins.

Wrath 2009 Syrah, Doctor’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands.
Medium-dark color, this had slightly floral aromas along with brighter fruit and a touch of black pepper. Medium-bodied with good structure and moderate tannins, nice.

Wrath 2009 Syrah, Fairview Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands.
Medium-dark color, featuring blackberry, herbs, and smoky oak. A bit richer mouthfeel than the Doctor’s bottling, with grippier tannins.

Comments: The Doctor’s Vineyard bottling has very good typicity of Syrah from Santa Lucia Highlands.

 

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