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Paul Lin

Paul's interest in wine extends beyond simple appreciation and enjoyment.  As an academic, he's never without his notepad and pen, and he loves to analyze a wine the way a scholar might pore over a fine piece of literature.  After being bitten by the wine bug during graduate school, Paul embarked on his wine journey out of a sense of intellectual curiosity and romantic self-indulgence.  Recently, he has turned his sights from simply drinking and writing about wine to actually making the stuff.  In 2007, under the label Terra Novus, Paul produced his first barrel of Pinot Noir from grapes from the Sonoma Coast. 

Eric Anderson

Eric first became interested in wine in 1983, after sampling the 1982 Bordeaux vintage. It was a watershed event, and he immediately began to accumulate a library of wine books, and spent the next several years attending as many wine tastings and seminars as possible. Since 1990, Eric has chronicled over 600 visits to wineries, both in the U.S. and Europe. Aside from simply enjoying the beverage, he found his interactions with winemakers and proprietors has further enriched his life, and continued to nourish his interest in wine. Eric is also part of GrapeRadio, the James Beard nominated podcast series.

The Wines of Mark Aubert - February, 2007

Everyone would probably agree that wine tasting is a subjective matter - maybe even highly subjective. One person's "stunner" might be another person's "blah." Yet, there are also occasions when there is a meeting of the mind as to what is in the glass. We've always wondered just how much and how often tasters will differ in their opinions of the same wine. With that in mind, we felt it would be downright interesting, if not instructional, to have two tasters sample the same wines and write tasting notes on each - for side-by-side comparison.

Overall impressions: this lineup of wines made by Mark Aubert included not only his own eponymous label, but also several wines that he made while at Peter Michael and Colgin. Such breadth offered an interesting opportunity to taste through many vintages, giving us a nice cross-section of wines. It's probably safe to say that we were looking forward to the several of these near ledgendary wines. This event was held at Pinot Provence, in Costa Mesa, CA.

Our two tasters agreed, relatively speaking, on several of the wines poured at this tasting. Yet, they obviously had differing opinions about some of the other wines - some quite notable. In fact, when reading the notes, you might even wonder if they were tasting the same wine. So, who's right? Well, if you learn one thing from this episode, there is no right or wrong - just differences. There are differences in how we each perceive aromas and flavors, differences in how we think one thing compares to another, and so on. There are also external forces at work at most tastings. For instance, the fact is that this was also a dinner tasting, and thus the food component could have easily swayed one into a positive or not-so-positive opinion about a given wine. So, let's take a look at the same wines from 'both sides now.'

Paul's Tasting Notes

Flight #1 - 2001-03 Aubert Chardonnay
1st course - sashimi of big eye tuna, dungeness crab, blood orange, shisho sprouts.

Eric's Tasting Notes

Flight #1 - 2001-03 Aubert Chardonnay
1st course - sashimi of big eye tuna, dungeness crab, blood orange, shisho sprouts.

2001 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
A well-aged and honeyed Chardonnay with rich tropical fruit notes. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)

2001 Aubert Ritchie Chardonnay - Touches of toast and caramel accent the lemon-lime nose and mouth. Smooth, rich, very nice acids - with some nice edges on the palate. Beautifully smooth with the tuna course, which seemed to intensify a butter quality in the wine.

2002 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
Very similar to the 2001. Same flavor profile, but with a much smoother and refined finish. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)
2002 Aubert Ritchie Chardonnay - Very similar to the '01, but seems much bigger in the nose and yet less forward in mouthfeel. Hint of prickly on the tongue, nice finish. Nice, but the '01 gets the nod here.

2003 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
A departure from the 2001 and 2002. Seems to have picked up some herbal characteristics, along with unripe fruit flavors. Nose is kind of swampy. (88 pts.)

2003 Aubert Ritchie Chardonnay - Nose of citron and lemon-lime, with just a bit of toasty oak. Full in mouthfeel - more than both the '01 and '02, and seems to carry a nice hint of ginger throughout.

2002 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vnyd - Sonoma County
Dances on the palate with lemon-lime flavors and nice mineral and slate notes. 90-91 points. (90 pts.)

2002 Aubert Quarry Chardonnay - Lots of buttered toast in the nose - plenty of fruit there too! Pretty and elegant initially on the palate; seems to pick up more spicy overtones with the tuna, and even a bit of heat noted on the back end.

2003 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vnyd - Sonoma County
Similar to the 2002. Same flavor profile, but with a much smoother and refined texture. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)

2003 Aubert Quarry Chardonnay - Wow! Nose of ginger, lemon and lime and just a wiff of toast. Creamy and rich in mouthfeel, lovely concentration, mouthfeel and finish. Very, very nice, and my favorite of the flight.

2003 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
Smooth texture. Nice orange cream and nectarine fruit. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)

2003 Aubert Reuling Chardonnay - Seemed a bit closed or restrained in the nose, with citron-like fruit and a faint touch of petrol. Good balance, seemed a bit tight in mouthfeel, with more of an apparent mineral bent.

Flight #2 - 2004 Aubert Chardonnay
2nd course - lobster poached buree fondue, mascarpone risotto, Oregon white truffles, Terre Bormane olive oil
Flight #2 - 2004 Aubert Chardonnay
2nd course - lobster poached buree fondue, mascarpone risotto, Oregon white truffles, Terre Bormane olive oil

2004 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
Rich caramel and tropical notes. Very well made. (93 pts.)

2004 Aubert Ritchie Chardonnay - Sonoma Coast -
Nose of lemon-lime and touch of sweet grapefruit. Somewhat soft in mouthfeel, and a bit sweeter than the previous Chardonnays. Fantastic with the risotto, as were all of these Chards.

2004 Aubert Chardonnay Lauren Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
A clean and well-delineated wine. Delicious pear and melon flavors. (94 pts.)

2004 Aubert Lauren Chardonnay - Wow! Gorgeous, elegant, very well balanced, and delicious! This wines was seemless on the palate and just beautiful and my favorite of this flight - and maybe of all the Chardonnays.

2004 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vnyd - Sonoma County
Terrific balance between fruit and minerality. Both citrus and slate. (92 pts.)

2004 Aubert Quarry Chardonnay - Fascinating ginger-spiced lemon and lime, with just the barest hint of mineral. Chewy in mouthfeel, excellent balance and very long finish. 2nd favorite of the flight.

2004 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
Incredibly smooth wine. Peach and pear fruit. I could drink this all night. (94 pts.)
2004 Aubert Reuling Chardonnay - Interesting. This wine almost seemed to mirror the Quarry, but for the additional nutmeg/cinnamon spice toward the finish of the wine. 3rd favorite of the flight.
Flight #3 - Aubert Pinot Noir
3rd course - grilled duck breast, seared La Belle Farms foie gras, wild mushrooms, bing cherry foam
Flight #3 - Aubert Pinot Noir
3rd course - grilled duck breast, seared La Belle Farms foie gras, wild mushrooms, bing cherry foam

2004 Aubert Pinot Noir Reuling Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
Firm acidity buttresses nice flavors of dried cranberries and cherry. Much more structured than I would have expected. Delicious, but needs some time. 92-93 points. (92 pts.)

2004 Aubert Reuling Pinot Noir - A beautiful showy wine - this is very forward in both nose and mouth. Lovely dark cherry fruit mingled with a bit of spice, impeccable balance - full and fruit-driven throughout. My favorite of the flight.

2004 Aubert Pinot Noir UV Vnyd - Sonoma Coast
Incredible! Has to be tasted to be believed. Layers upon layers of flavors and textures. Mocha, sour cherry, earth, and more. A truly three-dimensional wine, With a doubt, a classic. (95 pts.)
2004 Aubert UV Pinot Noir - Deeper, darker and more brooding than the Reuling, with more loamy qualities and a chewy finish. Marvelous wine - just needs some time.
Flight #4 - Peter Michael & Colgin Bordeaux Blends
4th course - braised Wagyu shortrib, seared Wagyu flat iron, cipollini onions, sauce merchand de vin
Flight #4 - Peter Michael & Colgin Bordeaux Blends
4th course - braised Wagyu shortrib, seared Wagyu flat iron, cipollini onions, sauce merchand de vin
1996 Peter Michael Les Pavots - Knights Valley
Did not seem as open as it could have been. Some loam and cassis peeking through, however. (89 pts.)

1996 Peter Michael Les Pavots Cabernet Sauvignon - Lots of perfumed cassis and a touch of cigar box on the nose. Lovely mouthfeel, very accessible, nice dark fruit, and long finish.

1997 Peter Michael Les Pavots - Knights Valley
Lots of depth and power to his wine. Very macho, yet nicely packaged, like an NFL linebacker in a handmade suit. Kind of intimidating. (92 pts.)
1997 Peter Michael Les Pavots Cabernet Sauvignon - Wow! Well, whatever the '96 might have promised, this one delivered in spades! Beautiful cassis-laden nose, with the just a touch of toast and dark chocolate. Lovely mouthfeel, fine-grained tannins still perceptable through the chewy fruit. Excellent balance and very long finish. All of this going for it, but I didn't think it went all that well with the dish. Rather than blending with it, it seemed to fight it.
2000 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard - Napa Valley
Some green notes. Latent fruit. A bit austere. (90 pts.)

2000 Colgin Tychson Cabernet Sauvignon - Gorgeous clove-scented nose of cassis, light herb, and toast. Lightly chewy mouthfeel, fabulous balance, and seamless finish of fine-grained tannins.

2000 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb - Napa Valley
Dark fruits, mocha, cedar. Terrific texture. (93 pts.)
2000 Colgin Herb Lamb Cabernet Sauvignon - Similar to the Tychson, but with loads more espresso, coffee/mocha aromas, along with a whiff of dill. A bit thicker and richer in mouthfeel, lots of flavor - a wine to sit and talk about.
2003 Colgin Syrah IX Estate - Napa Valley
Holy cow! What a treat! Rich mocha, cassis, raspberry notes. An opulent wine with velvety texture and firm tannins. (95 pts.)
2003 Colgin IX Cabernet Sauvignon - Still understandably tight in the nose and mouth, but with obvious dark fruit partially hidden behind a wall of tannins. Big and chewy in mouthfeel, the palate does yield up some nice fruit and one gets a sense that this young wine will grow into its shoes with a few more years in the bottle.
Flight #5 - Sauternes
5th course - apricot macaroon, vanilla Devonshire gelato, apricot confiture
Flight #5 - Sauternes
5th course - apricot macaroon, vanilla Devonshire gelato, apricot confiture
2002 Château d'Yquem - Sauternes
Amazingly rich yet light at the same time. Dried apricots and honey. A classic. (95 pts.)

2001 Chateau d'Yquem - Stunning! Just absolutely stunning! Seemed completely integrated - no edges here - with an amazing seamless texture on the palate, and a staggeringly long finish. Something approaching a creme brulee/lemon custard/caramel tart. Wow!

2001 Château d'Yquem - Sauternes
I think this wine stole the show. Even days later, I can't stop thinking about it. Hypnotic and seductive. This is the Salomé of wines. (98 pts.)
2002 Chateau d'Yquem - Slightly edgier than the '01, with more of a caramel and light lemon note. More fruit-forward, as well.

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