Austria, Alsace, Germany -

Notes and impressions from several Austrian, Alsatian, and German wines - Saturday, April 21, 2001, at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA. Twenty-one wines were poured for a tasting fee of $19.

Overall impressions: here was an interesting opportunity to taste through nearly a dozen Austrian wines, along with several Germans, and a few Alsatians. Among my favorites were the F. X. Pichler, which was a beautiful Riesling, but it was also $65. Personally, I'd rather have 3 of the J.J. Prum's for nearly the same price. Also, Schoffit just continues to turn out fabulous Tokay-Pinot Gris. Bargains under $20 in the flight include the Jamek Gelber, the Reinhold Haart, and the Monchhof - which is very nice for an under-$10 wine. All of the wines were tasty, with no real disappointments or major surprises. There were a few odd, gassy noses in the bunch, but I think for the most part, these will resolve themselves with time.

Individual Tasting Notes, in Order Tasted:

1999 Freie Weingartner Gruner Veltliner SmaragdAchleiten - Wachau, Austria. $14.99. Light gold color. Nose of sweet lemon and citrus peel, with almost a bit of soapy quality to it. Tasty mouthfeel, with a touch of spice, lots of citrusy sweet lemon-lime flavors, and a medium-long lemon peel finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1999 Loimer Gruner Veltliner Spiegel-Alte Reben.Kamptal, Austria. $24.99. Light gold color. Nose of spicy/bitter citron with some green apple, ad a clean lemon/lime peel note. Chewy mouthfeel, with a fruit-ball center, and a citrusy latter palate, leading to a citrus peel-flavored medium-long finish. Old vines.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Hirsch Gruner Veltliner Lamm-Alte Reben - Kamptal, Austria. $19.99. Light gold color. Sweet lemon candied LifeSaver aroma, clean and crisp. Tasty, smooth, slightly sweet and spicy mouthfeel, with a clean chewy long finish. Old vines.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1999 Jamek Gelber Muskateller - Wachau, Austria.$18.99. Light yellow color. Very fleshy and spicy nose, with a lush fruity quality. Clean, crisp and tasty mouthfeel, very nice balance, maybe a touch light on fruit from mid to latter palate, but a very nice wine.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Freie Weingartner Riesling Federspiel Terrassen -Wachau, Austria. $8.99. Light yellow color. Slightly stinky and petrol-like nose, with green stemmy background notes. Chewy pulp texture, clean and crisp lemon-lime peel flavors, that get a little sweet/sour toward latter palate. Interesting mouthfeel, if seemingly a bit underripe in fruit.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B+ Overall score: B

1999 Brundlmayer Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen - Kamptal, Austria. $15.99. Medium-light yellow color. Spicy, off-sweet fruity nose. Clean and crisp mouthfeel, with off-sweet slightly spicy fruit and a bit of peel, good balance, with a long sweet/sour finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1999 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein - Kamptal, Austria. $19.99. Light-medium yellow color. Crisp and clean in the nose, and more to the citrusy side of Riesling fruit. Only moderately fruity in mouthfeel, but very tasty, with a clean and crisp long finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1999 Freie Weingartner Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg -Wachau, Austria. $22.99. Medium yellow color. Fragrant, floral, and lightly spiced fruit. Off-sweet mouthfeel, with a bit of citron and lemon/lime peel flavors, and a very long clean finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Nigl Riesling Privat Sneftenberg Piri - Kremstal, Austria. $29.99. Light yellow color. Slightly restrained nose of spiced fruit, with a bit of raisin, floral and stem aromas. Tasty mouthfeel, with a fruity and almost wheaty quality to the mid-palate, and a very long finish and nice aftertaste. A very nice wine, that will probably develop some more aromatics as it opens up.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 F. X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Berg -Wachau, Austria. $64.99. Light yellow color. Deep and efffusive nose of riesling and muscat fruit, with hints of stem and citrus pulp. Smooth mouthfeel, moderate-full concentration, fabulous balance, and a medium-long smooth finish. A beautiful wine, but given the price, I suspect that not too many people will discover this.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

1999 Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer - Alsace. $13.99.Medium-light yellow color. Spiced citrus nose, with a bit of Mandarin orange in the background, along with floral and stemmy notes. Sweet uncomplicated fruit on the palate, nearly chewy consistency, medium-long clean spicy finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B

1998 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Clos des Capucins CuveeTheo - Alsace. $18.99. Light-medium yellow color. Very interesting and complex nose of rose and grape stem, with a slight medicinal quality in the background. Light in mouthfeel, with a fruit and roasted grain quality, and a medium-long finish. Substantially stemmy in the nose.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1997 Schoffit Tokay-Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann-Clos St.Theobald - Alsace. $37.99. Light-medium gold color. Lightly spiced citrusy fruit, with hints of raisin and candied lemon peel. Initially sweet mouthfeel smoothly melts away to off-sweet citrus and spice, leading to a very long smooth finish and nice aftertaste.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

Favorites, in Order of Preference:
1999 F. X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Berg - Wachau, Austria. $64.99.
1997 Schoffit Tokay-Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann-Clos St.Theobald - Alsace. $37.99.
1999 Joh, Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese -Mosel, Germany. $22.99.
1999 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese - Nahe, Germany.$28.49.
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1998 J. L. Wolf Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spatlese Trocken -Rheinpfalz, Germany. $25.99.
1999 Loimer Gruner Veltliner Spiegel-Alte Reben. Kamptal, Austria. $24.99.
1999 Freie Weingartner Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg -Wachau, Austria. $22.99.
1999 Jamek Gelber Muskateller - Wachau, Austria.$18.99.
1999 Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett - Mosel, Germany. $15.99.
1999 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett - Mosel, Germany. $15.99.
1999 Dr. Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese - Mosel, Germany. $17.99. (375ml).
1999 Monchhof Estate Riesling - Mosel. $9.99.
1999 Nigl Riesling Privat Sneftenberg Piri - Kremstal, Austria. $29.99.
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1999 Schloss Saarstein Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Spatlese - Saar, Germany. $16.99.
1999 Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer - Alsace. $13.99.
1999 Freie Weingartner Riesling Federspiel Terrassen -Wachau, Austria. $8.99.
1998 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Clos des Capucins Cuvee Theo - Alsace. $18.99.
1999 Brundlmayer Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen - Kamptal,Austria. $15.99.
1999 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein -Kamptal, Austria. $19.99.
1999 Hirsch Gruner Veltliner Lamm-Alte Reben - Kamptal, Austria. $19.99.
1999 Freie Weingartner Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten -Wachau, Austria. $14.99.

1998 J. L. Wolf Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spatlese Trocken -Rheinpfalz, Germany. $25.99. Light-medium yellow color. Very steely nose of light riesling fruit and stem. Beautiful balance, lightly crisp, with lots of slightly sweet fruit, and a very long crisp finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: A- Overall score: B+

1999 Monchhof Estate Riesling - Mosel. $9.99. Nearly clear in color. Light floral, wheaty, and slightly stemmy fruit aromas. Mouthfeel has a bit of spritz, is somewhat sweet and fruity in taste, with a nice long finish and aftertaste. Other than the spritz (which I found attractive), this is a pretty nice riesling for the price.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett - Mosel, Germany. $15.99. Off-clear color. Nose of meat and rose stem, with a steely crispness and a hint of cabbage. Lots of rose stem flavor, with crisp mouthfeel, and a stemmy floral taste to the long finish. Funny, for all of the odd scents and tastes here, the wine is tasty.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett - Mosel, Germany. $15.99. Nearly clear in color. Although stemmy, and conveying apparent CO2, the background aromas of sweet fruit seem to indicate there may be some potential here. Sweet and stemmy mouthfeel, the fruit at first appears a bit underripe, but from mid to latter palate the wine seems to fill out with some nice semisweet flavors, adding the total mouthfeel. Very interesting wine, the nose is a bit suspect, and may not pull through. However, the mouthfeel and flavors seem to more than cover the bet.
Aroma score: B Taste score: A- Overall score: B+

1999 Schloss Saarstein Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Spatlese - Saar, Germany. $16.99. Off-clear color. Sweet and stemmy apple/pineapple fruit with a twist of lemon-lime. Off-sweet citrusy taste, moderate complexity, with just a bit of coarseness to the fruit, and a long finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B

1999 Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese - Mosel, Germany. $22.99. Off-yellow color. Spicy, slightly floral muscat-like nose, with some stemmy and grain-like background notes. Sweet stemmy fruit, with a slight spritz on the palate, and a clean long fruity finish. Very nice.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

1999 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese - Nahe, Germany. $28.99. Off-clear color. Nose of sweet stemmy fruit, with hints of citron and wheat. Fleshy mouthfeel, yet crisp acidity and very nice balance. Sweet, slightly lemony fruit, long finish.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

1999 Dr. Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese - Mosel, Germany. $17.99. (375ml). Light gold color. Light and spicy nose, with a touch of raisiny sweetness. Moderate fruity mouthfeel, slightly sweet fruit, light touch of fruitcake spices, very nice balance, long finish. Seems a bit on the under-extracted side of things, but nicely made and very tasty.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+


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