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Tasting notes from a 2003 Bordeaux tasting - Saturday, February 18, 2006, at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA. Twenty-two wines were poured for a fee of $34. The wines were double-decanted 24-hrs prior to the tasting. Pricing shown is as it was at the Wine Exchange on the above date.

Overall impressions: this was my first look at the 2003 vintage, a flight of mostly lesser cru wines, with a few grand cru thrown in for good measure. Generally, there were some nice wine here - at some very affordable pricing.

The best wine of the flight was the Leoville Barton - but just barely. Factor in the cost, and the Lynch Bages steals the show. It's nearly as good, at 1/2 the price. In fact, I had the Leoville Barton much lower on the list, based on the first bottle tasted. While the nose was beautiful, the mouthfeel came across as quite soft and thin - almost dilute. A number of people remarked about this and the staff opened another bottle - which indeed tasted significantly better - a bit worrisome considering the price per bottle of $110!

The Lascombes is a wonderful wine as well, but the d'Armailhac was probably the best bargain in the flight, followed closely by the Faugeres, La Fleur, Lagrange, and Fleur Cardinale. The Troplong Mondot was probably the biggest disappointment, coming across much better in the nose than on the palate. In retrospect, I wonder if another bottle of this would have shown better as well. Bottom line: there's plenty of very tasty Bordeaux around the $30 range to choose from. Can you say that about California Cabernet?

As an aside, the wines are not served blind in this setting. Therefore, I attempt to shield myself from outside influences, by ignoring previous reviews, by not looking at the pricing of the wines until I am finished with my notes, and by ignoring the the pouring staff's banter about Wine Advocate or Wine Spectator scores for said wine.

Tasting Notes

2003 Chateau. Charbonnieux Blanc - Pessac Leognan. $26.99. Very light lemon color. Nice floral notes in the nose, with a touch of clover. Bit tart and citrusy in mouthfeel, lightly crisp lemon on the palate, long finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B

2003 Domaine de Courteillac - Bordeaux Superieur. $9.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Bit of violet and some tarry-licorice elements accent the cassis nose. Moderate dark berry fruit,, good balance and body, smooth medium-long finish. Apparently, this was Stephan Asseo's property in Bordeaux, before he came to the U.S. to start L'Aventure.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

2003 Chateau Puygeuraud - Cote de Francs. $12.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Light clove, some cigar box aromas and a touch of oak in the nose. Fresh crunchy fruit on the palate, not to shy on the oak with a bit of grippy texture and long finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

2003 Chateau Vrai Canon Bouché - Canon Fronsac. $12.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Smoky dark fruit, with a touch of Parmigiano-Reggiano in the nose. Grippy in mouthfeel, good fruit through mid-palate, but it only makes a brief appearance on the mostly oak-driven finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

2003 Chateau Joanin Becot - Cotes de Castillon. $12.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Sweet and very ripe in the nose - almost too much so. But, this 75/25 Merlot/Cab Franc is much better on the palate, and with a lots of stuffing and good balance through the long chewy finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

2003 Chateau Reignac - Bordeaux Superieur. $25.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Slightly herbed nose of cassis, cigar box and a touch of fennel. Slightly soft and very accessible on the palate, with very nice fruit and balance, and a nice sweet-sour finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Pipeau - St. Emilion. $19.99. Medium ruby garnet color. Interesting sweet candy-like quality in the nose, with notes of clove accenting the cassis. Off-sweet nearly bitter fruit on the palate - in contrast to the nose, with good body and balance, nice fruit and an unremarkable finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B

2003 Chateau La Fleur - St. Emilion. $26.99. Dark ruby garnet color. Lovely nose of cassis, clove and gingerbread. Delicious in mouthfeel - if a bit tannic and slightly rough initially, but all this smooths out through a very, very long silky finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Faugeres - St. Emilion. $24.99. Dark ruby color. Notes of clove, cake spices, and a touch of mint accent the plush cassis nose. Slightly sweet fruit, chewy mouthfeel, very nice balance, juicy long finish. Very nice!
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Fleur Cardinale - St. Emilion. $28.99. Dark garnet ruby color. Somewhat sweet and ripe in the nose, with clove, nutmeg and mint accenting the dark fruit. Off-sweet mouthfeel has plenty of fruit through mid-palate, softening just a bit on the otherwise long finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Troplong Mondot - St. Emilion. $52.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. While this showed the classic nose of cassis, cigar box, and pencil shavings, it seemed somehow out of character - more Haut-Medoc than a showy St. Emilion. Off-sweet fruit, with surprisingly soft mouthfeel, and smooth if decent finish. Disappointing.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B

2003 Chateau Clos Fourtet - St. Emilion. $59.99. Dark ruby garnet color. Nose of ripe cassis and sweetened cranberry - almost high-toned, along with vanilla and cake spices. Delicious mouthfeel and fruit, very nice balance, and smooth long sweet finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Lascombes - Margaux. $41.99. Dark ruby garnet color. Light expresso and mocha accent the gorgeous fruit here. Off-sweet fruit, lots of presence on the palate, with sweet tannins, excellent balance, and smooth long silky finish.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

My Favorites - In Order of Preference

2003 Chateau Leoville Barton - St. Julien. $109.99.
2003 Chateau Lynch Bages - Pauillac. $49.99.
2003 Chateau Lascombes - Margaux. $41.99.
2003 Chateau d'Armailhac - Pauillac. $28.99.
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2003 Chateau Faugeres - St. Emilion. $24.99.
2003 Chateau Lagrange - St. Julien. $32.99.
2003 Chateau La Fleur - St. Emilion. $26.99.
2003 Chateau Fleur Cardinale - St. Emilion. $28.99.
2003 Chateau Clos Fourtet - St. Emilion. $59.99.
2003 Chateau Pavillon Rouge de Ch. Margaux - Margaux. $56.99.
2003 Chateau Reignac - Bordeaux Superieur. $25.99.
2003 Chateau Clos Haut-Peyraguey - Sauternes. $39.99.
2003 Chateau Rauzan Segla - Margaux. $47.99.
2003 Chateau Le Crock - St. Estephe. $22.99.
2003 Chateau Talbot - St. Julien. $36.99.
2003 Chateau Troplong Mondot - St. Emilion. $52.99.
2003 Chateau. Charbonnieux Blanc - Pessac Leognan. $26.99.
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2003 Chateau Joanin Becot - Cotes de Castillon. $12.99.
2003 Chateau Pipeau - St. Emilion. $19.99.
2003 Chateau Puygeuraud - Cote de Francs. $12.99.
2003 Domaine de Courteillac - Bordeaux Superieur. $9.99.
2003 Chateau Vrai Canon Bouché - Canon Fronsac. $12.99.

2003 Chateau Rauzan Segla - Margaux. $47.99. Medium garnet color. Surprisingly light in color and extraction, the wine seemed to almost have a brickiness about it. Nice nose of cassis, cigar box, ash, and Asian spices. Good balance and mouthfeel, slightly sweet fruit that has a lot of presence initially, but fades more quickly than the tannins through the otherewise long finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux - Margaux. $56.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Classic nose of cassis, cigar and pencil shavings, but substantially muted. Nice fruit and mouthfeel initially, the wine gets a bit softer from mid-palate onward, trailing the sweet tannins to the finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Lagrange - St. Julien. $32.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Beautiful nose with plenty of dark fruit and accents of fennel and a light floral sweetness. Lots of fruit on the palate, very nice balance and finish, and yet there was something interesting about the mouthfeel - the wine seemed to have all the necessary elements, but they seemed almost revolving around, avoiding each other, rather than being integrated or in harmony.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Talbot - St. Julien. $36.99. Dark ruby garnet color. Very nice nose of cassis, cigar box, and pencil shavings. Good body and balance, nice fruit, but somehow a little uninspiring. The nose seems to promise to deliver, but the mouthfeel comes across more as more of a nice - if well-made quaffer.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Leoville Barton - St. Julien. $109.99. Very dark ruby garnet color. Nicely integrated nose of fruit, sweet spice, oak, and more fruit. Rich mouthfeel, slightly understated at present, with excellent balance and a long smooth finish.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

2003 Chateau d'Armailhac - Pauillac. $28.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Slightly sweet in the nose, with nicely ripen dark fruit and cake spices. Less sweet on the palate, with plenty of fruit, excellent balance, and slightly sweet smooth long finish.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

2003 Chateau Lynch Bages - Pauillac. $49.99. Medium-dark ruby garnet color. Gorgeous nose of spiced fruit, vanilla and light pipe tobacco notes. Flavors of lightly sweet fruit, pipe and cigar tobacco smoky nuances, excellent balance, smooth tannins and nice long finish.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

2003 Chateau Le Crock - St. Estephe. $22.99. Dark ruby color. Lots of clove and nutmeg accent the cassis nose. Slightly drying in mouthfeel, though lots of fruit and spice, and smooth long finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2003 Chateau Clos Haut-Peyraguey - Sauternes. $39.99. (750ml) Light lemon color. Lots of citrus in the nose - predominantly grapefruit, and only slightly sweetened - you'd never know from the nose that the mouthfeel woudl be sweet. Nice spicy lemon and citrus on the palate, good balance spicy long finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+


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