Cabernet - mostly '98s

Notes and impressions from a tasting of some Cabs - Saturday, May 12, 2001, at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA. Twenty-one wines were poured for a tasting fee of $24.

Overall impressions: a good selection of '98s, although a few '97s tried to steal the show. I have to admit that I was pleasantly surprised by several wines here. The Gallo Barrelli Creek was flat out delicious, and obviously priced well. In the newcomer category, the Centa is definitely a wine to seek out, and a bargain as well. I've never heard of Richard Perry, but if this is what they can do with a '98, I'm a believer. Also, the Grgich was the best in years, and I've not seen Clos du Bois look better. Minor letdowns were the Trilogy and the Fife. Both of them nice wines; just not quite as full throttle as in the past. The Parador was probably the most interesting wine in the flight, and certainly worth a try -- unless you're shy about non-traditional blends.

Individual Tasting Notes, in Order Tasted:

1999 Casa Silva Cabernet Sauvignon - Colchagua Valley, Chile. $8.99. Dark purple ruby color. Slightly swampy cassis and shoe polish aromas, along with oak and cheese toast. Tasty blueberry, blackberry, cassis flavors, medium-full body, long slightly oaky finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B+ Overall score: B

1997 Indigo Hills Cabernet Sauvignon - North Coast. $8.99. Medium dark garnet ruby color. Pungent nose of cassis, oak and wood byproducts (i.e. plywood). Astringent grape skin flavor contributes to the astringent, tannic mouthfeel. Long finish and oaky aftertaste, with a lumberyard aroma coming from the empty glass. Did I mention that it had wood?
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1998 Hedges Cabernet Sauvignon Three Vineyards - Columbia Valley. $17.99. Medium ruby garnet color. Stemmy and slightly veggie cassis nose, with toasty oak and a cheddar aroma. Somewhat tart, sour cranberry cassis fruit, medium-long finish. Certainly not up to the quality of the '95 Three Vnyds.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1998 Gordon Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon - Columbia Valley. $16.99. Medium ruby color. Nose of cassis, tar, anise, and toasty oak. Slightly chewy mouthfeel, lots of sweet-sour fruit, and a nice long finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Parador - Napa Valley. $31.99. Dark ruby color. Slightly restrained nose of cassis, toast, and hardwood scents. Sweet chewy mouthfeel, very smooth and refined across the palate - without being soft, and the flavors meld together into something nearly Rhone-like. The fruit does a gradual fade in the latter palate, and through the very long finish. Interesting wine and very tasty, if arguably a bit overpriced. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Tempranillo.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1998 Robert Craig Affinity - Napa Valley. $36.99. Medium dark ruby color. Lovely nose of buttery cassis, sweet anise, and toast. Moderate body (which has been typical for this wine), and slightly light in the chewy fruit department, but the somewhat grapey flavors seem very concentrated, and the finish is long and smooth. The Cab-like nose promises more than the Claret-like mouth delivers -- at least with this vintage.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B Overall score: B+

1998 Flora Springs Trilogy - Napa Valley. $38.99. Medium-garnet ruby color. Slightly restrained nose, with a bit of stem, cassis, oak, and toast background notes. Medium-full mouthfeel, sweet-sour fruit, long smooth finish. Nice enough, but doesn't seem to be up to previous vintages.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1998 Volkhardt Estate - Home Ranch Vnyd, North Coast. $17.99. Medium dark ruby color. Classic Bordeaux nose of cassis, oak, must, and a bit of leather or tobacco, tar, and anise. Off-sweet fruit, chewy mouthfeel with almost a grape skin crunch, balanced just a bit to the flabby side, with nice long finish. Interesting stuff, and I liked it more than the score probably shows.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B

1998 Centa Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. $22.99. Medium dark ruby color. Integrated nose of cassis, cheese toast, and oak, with just a hint of herbs. Big chewy mouthfeel, with off-sweet fruit, anise and slightly oaky cassis flavors, and a long sweet oak finish. Made by Mike Trujillo with fruit from Howell Mtn and Morisoli Vnyd. Nice job in a difficult vintage on this junior Karl Lawrence.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1997 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon - Zapata Vnyd, Mendoza Argentina. $39.99. Medium-dark garnet ruby color. Slightly caramelized cassis and oak nose, with a touch of herb and spice. Initially huge chewy mouthfeel with abundant cassis fruit, but everything seems to fade out rather quickly at mid-palate, and the medium-long finish comes up a bit sparse.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B Overall score: B+

1998 Thunder Mountain Star Ruby - Santa Cruz Mtns. $44.99. Medium garnet ruby color. Nose of cassis, raspberry, oak and ink, with some moderate herbaceous qualities, along with a touch of green bean and asparagus. Initially chewy with a big presence on the palate, the Cab Franc qualities of the wine seems to thin out a bit at mid palate, taking on a blue steel-like sternness to the fruit.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1998 Fife Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - Spring Mtn, Napa Valley. $35.99. Medium-dark garnet ruby color. Nose of sweet cassis, with a bit of stem, ink and oak background notes. Moderately full body and fruit, very nice balance, smooth across the palate, and nice long finish. Portrays itself more as a refined Claret, than a chunk Cab.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

Favorites, in Order of Preference:
1997 Renteria Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. $59.99.
1998 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon - Sonoma Mtn. $39.99.
1997 Gallo Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon - Barrelli Ck Vnyd, Alexander Valley. $22.99.
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1998 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. $57.99.
1998 Centa Cabernet Sauvignon. $22.99.
1997 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. $37.99.
1998 Richard Perry Cabernet Sauvignon - Perry Vnyd, Napa Valley. $39.99.
1998 Robert Craig Affinity - Napa Valley. $36.99.
1999 Parador - Napa Valley. $31.99.
1997 Clos du Bois Briarcrest Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander Valley. $29.99.
1998 Fife Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - Spring Mtn, Napa Valley. $35.99.
1998 Flora Springs Trilogy - Napa Valley. $38.99.
1998 Gordon Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon - Columbia Valley. $16.99.
1997 Rosenblum Cabernet Sauvignon - Holbrook Mitchell Vnyd, Napa Valley. $21.99.
1997 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon - Zapata Vnyd, Mendoza Argentina. $39.99.
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1998 Volkhardt Estate - Home Ranch Vnyd, North Coast. $17.99.
1996 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon - Bella Oaks Vnyd, Napa Valley. $45.99.
1999 Casa Silva Cabernet Sauvignon - Colchagua Valley, Chile. $8.99.
1998 Thunder Mountain Star Ruby - Santa Cruz Mtns. $44.99.
1998 Hedges Cabernet Sauvignon Three Vineyards - Columbia Valley. $17.99.
1997 Indigo Hills Cabernet Sauvignon - North Coast. $8.99.

1998 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon - Sonoma Mtn. $39.99. Medium-dark ruby color. Nose of cassis, cocoa, toast, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, and sweet sawdust. Big mouthfeel and somewhat tight, very extracted and chewy, flavors of ink and cassis, very long slightly tannic finish, with a toasted grain aftertaste. Wow, nice job!
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

1998 Richard Perry Cabernet Sauvignon - Perry Vnyd, Napa Valley. $39.99. Dark ruby color. Complex nose of cassis, chocolate, toast, caramelized brown sugar, with some added notes of herbs, balsamic, Worcestershire and soy sauce. Full mouthfeel, moderately chewy off-sweet fruit, some oak and tannins apparent in the long sweet-sour finish.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1998 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - Napa Valley. $57.99. Dark garnet ruby color. Nose of lush sweet cassis, oak, and anise. Full mouthfeel, lots of nicely integrated fruit, oak and tannins, and a nice long finish.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1997 Rosenblum Cabernet Sauvignon - Holbrook Mitchell Vnyd, Napa Valley. $21.99. Medium-dark garnet ruby color. The sweet-sour fruity nose seems a bit overcome at times with background notes of newsprint, alcohol, and dill. Moderately full mouthfeel, nice off-sweet toasty fruit, and long toasty finish. Nice price, for this tasty wine. And, who knows, maybe the nose comes around with more air.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1997 Gallo Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon - Barrelli Ck Vnyd, Alexander Valley. $22.99. Dark ruby garnet color. Slightly burnished cassis, oak, cheddar, sweet sawdust, and a touch of beet. Tasty, slightly sweet cassis fruit, anise, orange peel, and a bit of tar, full mouthfeel, and long finish. Way to go, Gina!
Aroma score: A- Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

1997 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. $37.99. Dark garnet ruby color. Nose of smoky cassis, cheese toast, oak, and anise. Full mouthfeel, slightly to the acidic side of balance, but there's plenty of off-sweet fruit to support it. Long tasty finish. This is the best Cab I've had from Grgich in a long while. Now, about that price.....
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1997 Renteria Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. $59.99. Very dark ruby purple color. Huge complex nose of cassis, anise, toasty oak, ink, cheddar, and tar. Massively extracted and very chewy mouthfeel, nicely integrated fruit, oak, and tannins, smooth and heavy on the palate, with a massively long jammy finish. Wow, what a killer!
Aroma score: A Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

1997 Clos du Bois Briarcrest Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander Valley. $29.99. Medium garnet ruby color. Sweet, refined, and complex nose of cassis, toast, and burnished hardwoods. Medium-full mouthfeel, lots of toast and fruit, very nice balance, and long finish. Nice job here.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1996 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon - Bella Oaks Vnyd, Napa Valley. $45.99. Medium garnet ruby color. Nose of slightly burnished herbed cassis, cheese toast, anise, and mint. Full mouthfeel, but fruit seems to get bit brief at mid-palate, and fades smoothly through long finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B


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