In-Depth Cabernet Tasting
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Tuesday, June 10, 1997

Results of an "In-Depth" Cabernet tasting at the Mondavi Food & Wine Center in Costa Mesa. Mondavi's George Van Duzer led the group through a 2-hr tasting with the central theme of Cabernet and its lineage. Organized into 3 flights of approximately three wines each, the concept of the 1st flight was to taste a few of the individual varietals that are commonly used as blending grapes with Cab. The 2nd flight consisted of blended and proprietary wines, and was to illustrate the effect of combining varietals into a final blend. The 3rd flight was a double-blind tasting of 4 wines (either a Cab or a blend), to see if we could discern one from the other and/or the effects of varietal content. I've added my scoring opinions individually on both the aroma and taste factors, as well as an overall rating. Notes as follows:

FLIGHT 1

1995 Charles Joguet , Clos du Chene Vert - Chinon. (Cab Franc) Medium-light ruby color with light purple-blue cast. Nose of floral, fleshy, and stemmy qualities, with aromas of rose petal, cola, cinnamon, lavender, jasmine, vanilla, and butter. Absolutely stunning!! Floral and stemmy on the palate, with a sensation of residual bitterness. Somewhat austere and filled with tannins at this point, but this was some amazing stuff! Very long finish.

Aroma score: A+
Taste score: A-
Overall score: A

1994 Newton Merlot - Napa Valley. Medium ruby-red color. Nose of cherry, strawberry, with slight floral qualities - almost Pinot-like. Aromas of fleshy and stemmy fruit, along with a hint of sweet green grass. Fleshy and full mouthfeel, with a touch of heat at mid-palate. Big cherry and cassis fruit, and very long finish.

Aroma Score: A-
Taste score: A
Overall score: A-

1994 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon - Oakville District. Medium-dark ruby color. Nose of casis, anise, vanilla, and shoe polish. Seductive aromas, rather than massively powerful. Flavors of creamy raspberries and strawberries. Good tannin and structure; big fruit seems very smooth and polished. Medium-long finish. Notes: About 95% Cab, from To-Kalon Vnyd.

Aroma score: A-
Taste score: A-
Overall score: A-

FLIGHT 2

1994 Yarraman Road Cabernet/Shiraz - Australia. Medium ruby with bricky red overtones. Slightly restrained nose of cassis, oak and bacon. With vigorous swirling, vanilla, spice, and a floral quality emerge. Smooth and spicy on the palate. Seems somewhat soft, and a little tart. Medium length, slightly hot finish. Notes: about 50/50 Cab and Shiraz, from a 30 yr old previous Penfolds vnyd.

Aroma score: B+
Taste score: B
Overall score: B+

1994 Pahlmeyer Red - Napa Valley. Dark ruby, with a hint of purple. Big concentrated ripe cassis nose, with vanilla, oak, and touch of, if you can believe it, ham and sweet pea. Huge, and very ripe fruit on the palate (14.5% alc), nearly soft tannins, and very smooth mouthfeel. Notes: a blend of the traditional 5 Boudeaux varietals, from the Carneros, Wooden Valley, and Spring Mtn districts, among others.

Aroma score: A
Taste score: A
Overall score: A

1993 Opus One - Napa Valley. Medium dark ruby, with hint of purple. Nose of cassis, shoe polish, sweet & sour BBQ sauce, anise, and mahogany sawdust. Dry, tannic, smooth fruit on the palate. Soft, yet the wine completely coats the mouth. Beautiful balance; long finish. Notes: (yes, this is honestly what I picked up in the nose.) a blend of the traditional 5 Boudeaux varietals. Classic Opus.

Aroma score: A-
Taste score: A
Overall score: A

FLIGHT 3

1989 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve - Napa Valley. Dark ruby color. Nose of cassis, and shoe polish. Almost a junior version of the Opus nose, only less powerful. Smooth, soft, and lush fruit, though still a very young mouthfeel. Long finish. Notes: poured from a magnum. Blend of Cab, Merlot, and Cab Franc.

Aroma score: A-
Taste score: A-
Overall score: A-

1989 Chateau Cantemerle - Haut Medoc. Medium dark ruby color. Aromas of cassis, vanilla, mint, and rose petal. Initially fruity mouthfeel. But, thin body or weak fruit, combined with a streak of light acids make the wine seem a bit off-balance. Notes: the color and acidity would indicate that this should/could age further, but I don't think the fruit will get any better.

Aroma score: A-
Taste score: B+
Overall score: B+

1989 Joseph Phelps Insignia - Napa Valley. Medium dark ruby, with a rose-red bricky cast. Creamy nose of cassis, strawberry, and raspberry. Dry and tannic, yet still fruity mouthfeel. Medium body, and a bit tart, but the finish goes on forever! Notes: blend of Cab, Merlot, and Cab Franc.

Aroma score: A
Taste score: A-
Overall score: A-

1989 Chateau Leoville Las Cases - St. Julien. Dark ruby, with a touch of maturity visible at edge. Nose of cassis, bacon, shoe polish, cigar box, and a hint of pickling spices. Tannic cassis; big fruit. Very chewy mouthfeel. You need a knife to cut the fruit here! Notes: very powerful. Surprisingly young fruit, given what appeared to be a glint of age at the edge of this wine.

Aroma score: A+
Taste score: A
Overall score: A

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Overall impressions: very nice tasting of an interesting cross-section of wines. The Chinon nose was just incredible! I can't recall EVER picking up this much floral quality in a wine. Luckily, it wasn't distracting nor a put-off - at least not for me. Another delight was the Pahlmeyer. Not having had any Pahlmeyer before, I was dubious about it, largely due to its current vogue. What a surprise! While very ripe in style, it is also very satisfying and easy to drink. No need to wait around for years on this one - that is, if you can find it (vogue = hard-to-find). The Opus was another of my favorites in this tasting. This wine is getting to be boring, technologically speaking; it just hasn't bored me completely to death...as yet. But, the big winner in my book was the Leoville Las Cases. This was just a killer! Large frame, big chewy fruit. "Yes sirree, I'll take a case of THIS one, please!"


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