District Wines - a look at the effects of soil
Tuesday, August 5, 1997
Results of a "District Wines" tasting at the Mondavi Food & Wine Center in Costa Mesa. Mondavi's Kurt Cobbett led the group through a 2-hr tasting with the central theme of demonstrating the differences between wines grown under different soil conditions. I've added my scoring opinions individually on both the aroma and taste factors, as well as an overall rating. Notes as follows:
1996 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc - Marlborough, New Zealand. Light lemon yellow color. Floral, lemon, melon, sweat, sweet grapefruit, and yet a one-dimensional nose. Very citrusy, with lemon and grapefruit. Bracing acids. Somewhat raw and simple mouthfeel.
Aroma score: B-
Taste score: B-
Overall score: B-
1995 Robert Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc - Stags Leap District, Napa Valley. Medium yellow color. Nose of butter, grass, oak, and a touch of citrus. Smooth, yet tart fruit. Bracing acids, but mouthfeel is mellow and leads to a long finish. Indicative of the clay soil of Yountville. Clay soil. Wine from 4 yr old vines, vinted in old oak.
Aroma Score: B+
Taste score: B
Overall score: B
1995 Robert Mondavi Reserve Fume Blanc - Tokalon Vnyd, Oakville, Napa Valley. Medium yellow color. Nose of butter, grass, oak, smoky, and more clearly defined and deeper than regular SB. Big mouthfeel, chewy fruit, nearly Chardonnay-like. Slightly tart, but long and very smooth finish. Deep gravel. 50 yr old vines, vinted in new oak.
Aroma score: A-
Taste score: A-
Overall score: A-
1994 Peter Michael Chardonnay - "Mon Plazure", Knight's Valley. Medium yellow. Nose of sweet fruit, oak, and smoke. Sweet, smooth fruit. A bit thin in mouthfeel; and thus a medium-bodied Chard. Nearly quaffable in the KJ style, but with a punch of acids through well-knit long smoky finish. Subtle, and very white Burgundian.
Aroma score: A-
Taste score: A-
Overall score: A-
1994 Robert Mondavi Chardonnay - Carneros, Napa Valley. Gold yellow color. Nose of smoky, buttery fruit, with a slight "green" quality, but only marginally obtrusive. Medium-full body, with a rich, smoky, oaky taste. Slightly grainy/astringent finish.
Aroma score: A
Taste score: A
Overall score: A
1994 Adelsheim Pinot Noir - Polk Co. / Willamette Valley, OR. Light ruby color, and quite unfiltered looking. Nose of fabulous ripe sweet cherry, candied apple, pomegranate, shoe polish, and anise. Stunning! Sweet full mouthfeel. Slightly bitter. Appears to need some time. Long finish. Fruit from 7 Springs vineyard.
Aroma score: A+
Taste score: A-
Overall score: A-
1994 Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir - Carneros, Napa Valley. Medium ruby color. Very restrained nose, with hints of black cherry and strawberry. Light-medium mouthfeel, frame, and flavors. Seemingly a bit short on fruit, but okay on glycerin. Sort of a light Burgundian style.
Aroma score: B+
Taste score: B
Overall score: B+
1994 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon - Rutherford, Napa Valley. Deep ruby. Anise, bell pepper, shoe polish nose. Deep and dusty smelling, with an apparent long life ahead. Dusty cassis, with a big mouthfeel and round tannins. Just a killer Cab. This wine does seem to exemplify the "Rutherford Dust."
Aroma score: A
Taste score: A
Overall score: A
1991 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon - Oakville, Napa Valley. Dark ruby color. Nose of cassis, shoe polish and black cherry. Cassis and chalky, but good mouthfeel. Fruit seems a bit hollow.
Aroma score: A-
Taste score: B+
Overall score: B+
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Overall impressions: nice tasting of an interesting cross-section of "district"
wines. I guess if I could have set-up this tasting, I'd have concentrated
on a single varietal to show the various qualities that a particular soil
or "terrior" contributes to a wine. While I could "back-into" the taste
and feel of most of these wines, the absolute bulls-eye was the Staglin
Cab.
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