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WINERIES REVIEWED

Ackerman
Ahnfeldt
Alfaro Family
Andrew Geoffrey
Anglim
Ancien
Anomaly
Barlow
Bennett Lane
Blacksmith Cellars
Blue Rock
Boyd Family
Bravante
Buttonwood
Cain
Calera
Carrefour
Chappellet
Cima Colima
Clos Pepe
Coral Mustang

Corte Riva
Derbes
Diamond Terrace
Dierberg
Dovetail
Dry Stack
DuNah
Dutton-Goldfield

Elke
Emilo's TerraceFisher
Fort Ross
Frank Family
Frazier

Grasso
Grgich Hills
Hagen Heights
Hill Family
Hope & Grace
Inman
J Vnyds
J. Wilkes
Jordan
Joseph Family
Keenan
Keller
Kenefick Ranch
Krupp Bros
Kuleto
Lagier Meredith
L'Angevin
Landmark
Larkmead
Levendi
Londer
Merry Edwards
Michaud

Miller
Miner Family
Mitchella
O'Shaughnessy
Page
Parallel
Pisoni
Punk Dog
Renteria
Revana
Reynolds
Richard Perry
Rocca Family
Rockledge
Roessler
Saddleback
Santa Cruz Mtn
Savannah Chanelle
Sojourn
Spann
Spence
Spring Mtn
Thompkin
Turchi
Vergari
Vie
Vision
Zahtila

2008 FAMILY WINEMAKERS OF CALIFORNIA -
PASADENA, CA
-

Report on the 9th annual trade tasting presented by the Family Winemakers of California, Tuesday, March 18, 2008. This annual event focuses on wines grown and/or produced by FWC members from current releases or soon-to-be-released vintages.

Founded in 1991, the FWC's purpose is to represent the small, family-owned wineries before the California Legislature and state regulatory agencies. They hold Annual "trade" tastings twice each year, one in Northern California and one in Southern California - though they have recently expanded the Northern California event to include a separate public tasting.

I've tried to use these FWC tastings to visit many wineries whose names are new to me, or that I hadn't visited before. Often, smaller or newer wineries that haven't received much press can have some undiscovered gems. As a side benefit, their tables usually aren't quite as crowded, either.

The winery attendance at this year's event was large - about 325 labels were represented, pouring 600+ wines. To cover a room that large really takes more than one person, so Paul Lin both covered the event, and elected to split things up along varietal lines. Fortunately, the event was four hours long and we managed to get to 84 of the wineries represented to assess about 160 wines, making this the most comprehensive Grape-Nutz report on this event.

Some Favorites

CABERNET / MERLOT / MERITAGE:
2004 Anomoly Cabernet
2004 Barlow Cabernet
2005 Chappellet Cabernet
2004 Corte Riva Cabernet
2005 Diamond Mtn Cab - Howell Mtn
2003 Fisher Lamb Mtn Cab - Howell Mtn
2004 Hill Family Cabernet
2005 Hope & Grace Cabernet
2005 Joseph Family Cabernet
2004 Kenefick Ranch Cabernet

2005 Larkmead Cabernet
2004 Rocca Family Cabernet

PINOT NOIR:
2005 Clos Pepe Estate - SRH
2005 Cima Colima - Tondre's Grapefield
2006 J. Wilkes - RRV
2006 Ancien - RRV
2006 Martin Alfaro Family Vnyd
2006 Vision Cellars - Garys' Vnyd

SYRAH / GRENACHE / BLENDS:
2005 Lagier Meredith Syrah
2003 Rocca Family Syrah
2006 Tompkin Cellars Grenache

Overall impressions: the tasting notes below give a brief description of the wine's attributes and/or qualities, or impressions from either Paul or myself. Each of Paul's tasting notes have his initials "PL" and a score forllowing the note. In some cases, we both tasted the same wine, and where this has happened, we have included both tasting notes.

The wines poured are generally the current releases by each winery, although some wineries pour the previous release, or may substitute samples from yet-to-be-released vintages - if current supplies are sold out or otherwise unavailable.

As far as the Bordeaux varietals of Cabernet, Merlot etc., I was a little surprised to see as many 2003-04 vintages being poured, and really expected to see more 2005s. That said, it was a good chance to taste some wines with some bottle age on them. Across the board, the wines were nearly all good to very good - with some excellent. I felt that 2004, in general, seemed to be a departure from both what I expected (very ripe), and what I got (more claret-like elegance).

With regard to Pinot Noir, Paul thinks the 2006 vintage is a significant step down from the glorious 2005. While some of the wines did show well, many -- especially those from Sonoma County -- tended to display some underdeveloped flavors. From a collector's prospective, I will be making more of an effort to taste as many 2006 Pinots as I can in advance of buying them. Or better yet, I might just wait for the 2007s to come out, which should be a fantastic vintage.

His favorite 2005 Pinot at the tasting: the 2005 Clos Pepe Estate. His favorite 2006 was the J. Wilkes Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Hillside Estate. The Rhone verietals showed very well at this tasting. I loved the 2003 Rocca Family Syrah, but the winner for me was the 2006 Thompkin Cellars Grenache -- an incredible wine! My general impression is that 2004 is a stronger vintage than 2005 for Cabernet. But that evaluation depends largely upon what one is looking for in a wine. The 2004s tended to show more power and density of fruit, while the 2005s were more elegant. Both were very good across the board; however, it just seems to me that the balanced 2005s will come to maturity a bit sooner than the concentrated 2004s. My favorite Cab of the tasting was the 2004 Rocca Family Cabernet.

Selected Tasting Notes
ACKERMAN - Napa Valley

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Gorgeous nose of cassis, plum and toast. A bit restrained in mouthfeel, with very nice flavors yet some astringency from mid to latter palate. Nice balance and finish.

Comments: the wines are made by Gove Celio (fmr Liparita; Neal), and given this debut, ought to be long-term agers. About $72 for this first release.

AHNFELDT - Napa Valley

2004 Merlot - Napa Valley. Plenty of dark fruit here, nice complexity of aromas and flavors, slight Cab Franc quality to the aromas. Very nice balance and finish.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Hi-toned fruit in nose and mouth, with very nice balance, and long finish. Nice wine here, obviously built for pairing with foods.

Comments: vnyd sources are mostly from southeastern part of the valley and hillsides. The winemaker is Craig MacLean. wines priced about $45-50.

ALFARO - Napa Valley

2006 Alfaro Family Pinot Noir 'A' Estate - San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains. Perhaps the most open of the Alfaro line-up. Notes of dark cherries and chocolate-covered raspberries. Very good structure and acidity for an entry level wine. --PL (90 pts.)

2006 Martin Alfaro Pinot Noir Schultze Vineyard - San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains. An interesting pinot. Exotic notes of cured meats and Asian spices wrapped around a dense core of strawberry puree. --PL (89 pts.)

2006 Martin Alfaro Pinot Noir Deer Park Vineyard - San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains. Comprised of Mount Eden clone and Dijon clones 667 and 777. Fairly classic notes of strawberries and earth. Well made. --PL (88 pts.)

2006 Martin Alfaro Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard - Santa Lucia Highlands. Perhaps my least favorite Alfaro pinot. Came across a little like a cherry Pop-Tart. --PL (86 pts.)

2006 Martin Alfaro Pinot Noir Alfaro Family Vineyards - San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains. A very big pinot. Notes of rubber -- (but in a good way), dark cherries, sassafras, and hard spices. Dense in mouth and possesses a long finish. --PL (91 pts.)

ANDREW GEOFFREY - Napa Valley

2004 Andrew Geoffrey Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain. A really delicious wine that shows just how strong the vintage is. Notes of black currant, black plums, dark chocolate, and graphite. --PL (92 pts.)

ANGLIM - Paso Robles

2006 Anglim Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard - Santa Rita Hills. Pommard clone and Dijon clones 115 and 113. Concentrated notes of dark cherry, black raspberry, and earth. A meaty wine. --PL (88 pts.)

ANCIEN - Napa Valley

2006 Ancien Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - Russian River Valley. Dijon clone 115. A harmonious integration of strawberries, earth, crushed minerals, and spice. Elegant and well-made. --PL (90 pts.)

2006 Ancien Pinot Noir Toyon Vineyard - Napa Valley, Carneros. Swan clone and Dijon clone 115. Tighter than the RRV Pinot. Muted notes of Bing cherries, earth, and leather. And elegant wine with very good acidity. --PL (89 pts.)

ANOMOLY - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Well, this is a definite wow! Loads of smooth ripe cassis and light toasty/dried herb aromas and flavors, perfect balance with long seductive finish.

2004 Anomaly Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. A really wonderful and complex wine. Layered notes of cassis, cedar, red currants, and vanillin oak. A touch of mint from the Cab Franc adds an extra dimension. Powerful on the palate yet nicely textured. 92-93 points. --PL (92 pts.)

Comments: certainly one of my favorite wines in the tasting, this is a very well-crafted effort. Fruit is sourced from St. Helena area, and the wine is $75.

BARLOW - Napa Valley

2004 Merlot - Napa Valley. Very nice off-sweet ripe dark cherry and plum, excellent balance and long finish.

2004 "Barrouge" - Napa Valley. This Claret blend is similar to the Merlot, with a bit less body and more perceptable sweetness on the palate.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nose of cassis and black raspberry. A bit hi-toned in mouthfeel, with very nice balance and finish.

Comments: IMO, still one of the bargain Cabs from Calistoga, if not the entire valley.

BENNETT LANE - Napa Valley

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice dark cherry fruit, with some tasty elements. Good balance and smooth finish.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Resv - Napa Valley. Similar to the regular Cab, but with slightly more mouthfeel and structure. That said, it didn't seem as engaging at the moment.

BLACKSMITH - Alexander Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander Valley. Nice nose of cassis and dark fruit-scented nose with just a bit of toasted herb. Built more like a claret in mouthfeel, the wine almost seemed a bit underfilled, though balance and finish were nice.

Comments: a new guy on the block, whose previous experience includes: BV, JC Cellars, Dashe.

BLUE ROCK - Napa Valley

2004 Blue Rock Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander Valley. A nicely balanced wine with refined notes of black currants, cedar, sweet tobacco, and leather. 89-90 points. --PL (89 pts.)

2004 Blue Rock Syrah - Alexander Valley. A little heavy handed with the oak, but a nontheless enjoyable wine. Notes of blue and black fruits, grilled meats, and Pez candies. Good acidity helps to balance out the sweetness of the fruit. --PL (89 pts.)

BOYD - Napa Valley

2005 Merlot - Napa Valley. Nice nose and flavors, with good balance and tight finish.

2005 "Big Ranch" Meritage - Napa Valley. Nice somewhat nose of cassis and toast. Good flavors, balance and slightly astringent finish.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice somewhat complex nose of cassis and toast. Medium weight on the palate, good flavors, balance a bit to the acid side, long finish.

BRAVANTE - Napa Valley

2005 "Trio" - Howell Mtn. Blend of Merlot, Cab, and Cab Franc. Nose of dark fruit, toasted herb and plum. Billed as a Claret, it had nice balance, good mouthfeel and finish.

2003 "Sympatico" - Howell Mtn. Blend of Cab and Cab Franc. Slightly more mouthfeel in this wine, and a bit more flavorful as well.

2003 Merlot - Howell Mtn. Nice nose of herb-tinged fruit, with good presence on the palate.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice enough profile in nose and mouth, but I kept thinking, "where's the beef."

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Definitely pulling more weight than the '04 version, this had plenty of fruit, lots of chewy body and nice long finish.

BUTTONWOOD - Santa Ynez

2006 "Hawk Red " - Santa Ynez. This Cab, Cab Franc blend has an engaging nose, very nice up-front fruit on the palate, and silky finish. The big surprise - $14.

CAIN - Napa Valley

NV5 Cain Cuvee - Napa Valley . The Cain Cuvee is mostly '05 fruit, with a touch of '04 added. Very nice nose and mouthfeel; a bit weak on the back end.

2004 "Concept" - Napa Valley . The mostly Cab blend has a lovely nose of dark fruit, toasted herb and blueberry. It seemed very claret-like in mouthfeel, with an elegant texture, very, very nice balance and finish.

CALERA - Central Coast

2006 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Cuvée - Mount Harlan. It's a shame to drink this style of wine at such an early stage. Muted aromas with lots of green floral notes. Thin and watery. --PL (83 pts.)

2005 Calera Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard - Mount Harlan. 100% stem inclusion and it's obvious. Stemmy and tannic with notes of rose water, black tea, white rocks, and ocean spray. Right now: 85-86 points. --PL (85 pts.)

2005 Calera Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard - Mount Harlan. 100% stem inclusion and it's obvious. Stemmy and tannic, with notes of raspberries, rose water, and crushed minerals. Right now: 86-87 points. --PL (86 pts.)

CARREFOUR - Napa Valley

2003 Merlot - Napa Valley. Lovely plum and dark chery nose. Good body, flavors, balance and nice finish.

2005 Merlot - Napa Valley. Nice - almost elegant in aroma and mouthfeel, very nice balance and finish.

2005 Cabernet Franc - Napa Valley. Nose of dark berry and toasted herb. Big, dark and chewy on the palate, with some astringent flavors through the long finish.

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice nose of cassis, hints of toasted herb and tobacco. Very good mouthfeel, balance and finish.

CHAPPELLET - Napa Valley

2005 Mtn Cuvee - Napa Valley. Fabulous nose, with lots of beautiful aromatics from dark fruit, spices and background notes of coffee. This claret has moderately full mouthfeel, delicious flavors, very good balance and finish.

2005 Merlot - Napa Valley. Nice fleshy nose of dark plum and spice. Seems a bit underfilled on the palate, with nice balance and finish.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Very Bordeaux-like, with scents of cassis, spice, pipe tobacco and toast. Good weight on the palate, very textbook Napa Cab - without being overblown.

CIMA COLIMA - Monterey Co

2005 Cima Collina Pinot Noir Tondre's Grapefield - Monterey County. Pommard clone and Dijon clones 115 and 667. Rustic notes of wild strawberries, rhubarb, and cloves. Nice acidity. 90-91 points. --PL (90 pts.)

2005 Cima Collina Pinot Noir Chula Vina - Monterey County. Muted aromas and little disjointed on the palate. Notes of strawberries, pomegranate, and raw beef. --PL (86 pts.)

2005 Cima Collina Pinot Noir Hilltop Ranch - Monterey. Incredibly dense and concentrated. Syrah-like in appearance. Chewy notes of plums, blackberries, dark chocolate, and wet soil. Not for the traditionalist or the timid. --PL (88 pts.

CLOS PEPE - Santa Rita Hills

2005 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills. A very pretty Pinot. Delicate notes strawberries, raspberries, rose petals, red clay, and crushed minerals. Good acidity. Not as flashy as the 2006, but I actually preferred this one by a decent margin. 91-92 --PL (92 pts.)

2006 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills. A lot of stuff going on in this young wine. Opulent notes of black raspberries, dark cherries, wet soil, and smoke. Needs time. 89-90 points. --PL (89 pts.

CORAL MUSTANG - Alexander Valley

2004 Tempranillo - Paso Robles. Ripe and rich nose, with a nice less-ripe style in mouthfeel. No, it's not Rioja, but it's a damned good rendition of the grape.

Comments: with a name like Coral Mustang, and a conscious decision to make only Tempranillo, this was one of my "must stops" on the circuit. Unfortunately, I didn't get back to try their '05, which was from Sonoma County, rather than Paso.

CORTE RIVA - Napa Valley

2004 Merlot - Napa Valley. Lovely dark fruit and spice-scented nose. Rich and lightly chewy mouthfeel, delicious fruit, long seamless finish.

2005 Cabernet Franc - Napa Valley. Nose of ripe dark fruit with a hint of toasted herbs. Very nice feel on the palate, excellent balance and finish.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice nose of cassis, spice, and toast. Medium-full mouthfeel, good flavors and finish. After the first two wines, I was looking for a little more here.

DERBES - Napa Valley

2004 Derbès Les Pinots - Russian River Valley. 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Pinot Meunier. Rustic notes cooked cherries, strawberry jam, and wet soil. Tasted like it might have been heat damaged, but the person pouring it said it was fine. --PL (83 pts.)

DIAMOND TERRACE - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Diamond Mtn. Nice nose here, but the mouthfeel felt underfilled and thin.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Diamond Mtn. Nicer and fuller than the '04, with plenty of spice, toast and tobacco notes to amp up the fruit.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Howell Mtn. Wow! Stunning nose of dark fruit, spice, toast, and bittesweet chocolate. Full and rich on the palate, with perfect balance and very long seamless finish. Just killer!

Comments: the Diamond Mtn fruit just didn't impress me here, but the Howell Mtn bottling was absolutely beautiful. Some of this, I'm sure, was winemaking (Thomas Rivers Brown), but the the site certainly had to play a big role.

DIERBERG/STAR LANE - Santa Ynez Valley

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Santa Ynez Valley. Very nice nose of dark fruit and spice, along with some toasted herbs. Off-sweet fruit, full body, very good balance and finish.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon "Astral" (Resv) - Santa Ynez Valley. Similar profile in complexities as the regular bottling, but this is one darker, richer, and chewier in mouthfeel. Excellent Cab!

2005 Dierberg Pinot Noir - Santa Maria Valley. Pungent notes black cherry, blackberries, hard spices, a little bit of shoe polish. Kind of a brooding Pinot. --PL (87 pts.)

Comments: the Dierberg is used for Pinots, the Star Lane label for everything else - like these Cabs from the Happy Cyn section of Santa Ynez Valley.

DOVETAIL - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Decent nose of cassis and spice, but very thin and dilute in mouthfeel.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Better on all levels than the '04, but still somewhat underfilled in mouthfeel and a much riper style throughout.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice effusive nose of cassis and spice. Medium-full mouthfeel, nice flavors and finish. After the first two wines, I was a little worried about this producer. But, the '06 seems on track.

2006 Dovetail Vineyards Pinot Noir - Russian River Valley. Complex and funky. Notes of strawberries, rhubarb, caramel, and cocoa powder. 86-87 points. --PL (86 pts.)

2006 Dovetail Vineyards Pinot Noir Indindoli Vineyard - RRV. Dijon Clones 667 and 115. Notes of strawberry jam, cola, and toffee. A little soft in the finish and could use a touch more acidity. A showy wine nonetheless. 87-88 points. --PL (87 pts.)

2006 Dovetail Vineyards Pinot Noir Windsor Oaks Vnyd - RRVy. Dijon clone 115. The bricking coloring belies its youth. Simple notes of wild strawberries, raspberries, and forest floor. Seemed a little oxidated to me. --PL (84 pts.)

Comments: not sure what to make of this producer's first couple of offerings. I suspect poor vnyd sources and/or vintage issues for the '04-'05, whereas the '06 seems much more of what I'd expect from a Napa Cab. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to speak to the winemaker about this.

DRY STACK - Sonoma County

2007 Sauvignon Blanc - Bennett Valley. Very juicy nose, filled with boxwood and citrus. Rich mouthfeel, off-sweet fruit and lightly crisp throughout, with nice long finish.

2006 Syrah - Bennett Valley. Fabulous nose of tarry blackberry, with hints of herb and licorice. Excellent level of ripened fruit, smooth and chewy mouthfeel, very long finish.

Comments: owned by Peter and Marie Young, this vnyd may have put Bennett Valley on the map in a very short period of time. The well-known Sherry producer took exception to the label name and it is due to be changed to Gray Stack.

DUTTON-GOLDFIELD - Napa Valley

2006 Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch - RRV. A really nice surprise. Hedonistic notes of sweet black cherry, black raspberry, and mocha-laced oak. Long finish with a touch of citrus. 89-90 points. --PL (89 pts.)

DUNAH - Sonoma County

2005 DuNah Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard - Sonoma Coast. Kind of one-dimensional, but inoffensive and easy to drink nonetheless. Candied notes of strawberries and red licorice. --PL (85 pts.)

ELKE - Anderson Valley

2006 Mary Elke Pinot Noir - Anderson Valley. Simple, but easy to like. Notes of sour cherries, earth, and mineral. The finish is rather short. --PL (86 pts.)

2005 Elke Pinot Noir Donnelly Creek Vnyd - Anderson Valley. Like the 2005, but with more acidity and more textural elegance -- a function of both the vintage and bottle age perhaps. Notes of sour cherries, red clay, and wet soil. --PL (88 pts.)

2006 Elke Pinot Noir Donnelly Creek Vnyd - Anderson Valley. Notes of sour cherries, red clay, and wet soil. Similar to the appellation blend, but with a denser mouthfeel. --PL (87 pts.)

EMILIO'S TERRACE - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley . Nose of cassis, toast and spice, with a hint of pipe tobacco. Mediuim-full bodied, very good balance and nice long finish.

2004 "Moonschlein" - Napa Valley . A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cab, from the same source as the Emilio's. nice nose of dusty cassis and spice. More claret-like in mouthfeel, with good balance and finish.

2004 "Sophie's Rows" - Napa Valley . This blend of mostly cab, with lesser amounts of Petite Verdot and Cab Franc has a nice agreeable nose, very good flavors and balance and nice long finish.

FISHER - Napa Valley

2004 "Coach Insignia" Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice dusty cassis and spice in the nose. Full bodied, good flavors and balance and nice long finish.

2003 "Lamb Vnyd" Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Beautifully integrated and deep nose of cassis, spice and toast. Delicious flavors of dark berry and toasted spices, excellent balance, very long smooth finish. Wow!

2005 "Unity" Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Anchored by 90% Cab, this Bdx blend uses fruit sources from both Napa and Sonoma - hence the name. Seductive nose of dark fruit, toast and cake spices. Smooth and silky on the palate, very good balance and nice long finish.

FORT ROSS - Napa Valley

2004 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Reserve Fort Ross Vineyard - Sonoma Coast. A rich mouthful of dark cherries, currants, earth and vanilla. Creamy texture, but the finish is little astringent. 88-89 points. --PL (88 pts.)

2005 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard - Sonoma Coast. Not showing as well as expected. Notes of strawberries and rose petals. Rather thin on the palate with an astringent finish. --PL (86 pts.)

2006 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Symposium - Sonoma Coast. An interesting Pinot. Notes of Bing cherries, grapefruit, and orange rind. --PL (87 pts.)

FRANK FAMILY - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Beautiful rich nose of cassis, toast and a touch of pipe tobacco. Full and rich on the palate, with excellent balance and very long finish.

FRAZIER - Napa Valley

2004 "Lupine Hill" Merlot - Napa Valley. Plummy and herb-scented aromas in the nose. Even a little more herbed-flavored in the mouth. Good balance and finish, but seemed a bit "green."

2004 "Lupine Hill" Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nose of cassis and toasted herb, with a bare hint of tomato vine. Good mouthfeel, balance and finish.

Comments: I was a little disappointed they had chosen to only pour their "declassified" Lupine label, rather than the Frazier.

GRASSO - Napa Valley

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Lovely nose of cassis and toast. Very tasty mouthfeel and flavors, medium-bodied, very good balance and long finish.

Comments: a new face in the Cab market, and this one seems to be on the right track. I liked the nose slightly more than the mouthfeel.

GRGICH HILLS - Napa Valley

2004 Merlot - Napa Valley. Nose of lightly plummy fruit and spice. The body and mouthfeel is sort of a claret of Merlot, if you will. A little weak on fruit, and acid-balanced throughout.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nose of dusty cassis. Seem a bit underfruited in mouthfeel, with an hi-toned flavor and finish.

Comments: these Grgich offerings continue to disappoint me. Largely acid-based and certainly underfruited.

HAGEN HEIGHTS - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice cassis-scented nose with a touch of toasted herb. It's medium-full bodied, with very good balance and long finish.

Comments: another fairly new producer, this is a nice textbook offering from the cooler part of Napa Valley - east of the city. Often times, wines from this area pick up a lot of herbaceous or vegetal qualities. I found none of those here.

HILL FAMILY - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Beautifully ripened spice-scented dark fruit, with nice toasty aspects in background. Off-sweet currant, with cake spice and hints of bittersweet chocolate, excellent balance and smooth long finish.

Comments: I first tried this producer about 4 yrs ago (Hill Family). I thought the Cab was pretty good stuff then, and I still do. And, at under $40, it's a bonifide bargain.

HOPE & GRACE - Napa Valley

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Intriguing nose of nicely ripened fruit, spice, toast, and cocoa powder. Ful and rich on the palate, excellent balance and smooth long finish. (Fruit from Lewelling vnyd.)

INMAN - Napa Valley

2005 Inman Family Pinot Noir Olivet Grange Vineyard - Russian River Valley. Very restrained, almost to the point of being ethereal. Faint notes of raspberries, mineral, and a touch of stem. Sadly, this is a wine that would easily get lost in a crowd. --PL (85 pts.)

J VINEYARDS - Sonoma County

2002 Brut Sparkling wine - Russian River. A 50/50 blend of Chard and Pinot, the nose and flavors both seem to favor the ripe meaty Pinot expression. Very nice balance and finish.

J. WILKES - Napa Valley

2005 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir Block Q Bien Nacido Vineyard Q Block - Santa Barbara County. More elegant than the 2006 Bien Nacido Hillside. Notes of raspberries, strawberries, and hard spices. Well balanced and lovely to taste. --PL (90 pts.)

2005 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir Block 3 Solomon Hills - Santa Barbara County. Notes of Bing cherries, pomegranates, and crushed minerals. Nice on the palate, but the finish is attenuated. --PL (88 pts.)

2006 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Hillside Estate - Santa Barbara County. Unmistakably Californian, but delicious nonetheless. Hedonistic notes of chocolate covered strawberries, black raspberries, and vanillin oak. Rich, creamy texture. Long dark chocolate infused finish. --PL (92 pts.)

JORDAN - Alexander Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander Valley. From first wiff, the bell pepper in this wine never fades from senses.

Comments: back in the '80s, Jordan could do no wrong. Now I wonder, where did they go wrong? Like many of their brethren from those days, Jordan seems to have lost its way - without seeming to have noticed. Where is the fruit, instead of the vegetables?

JOSEPH - Alexander Valley

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander Valley. Definitely a 'wow' nose, with light cake spice accenting the cassis/currant fruit, and lightly toasted herbs. Lovely balance, marvelous weight on the palate, and delicious from attack to long smooth finish.

Comments: okay, here's a delicious $40 offering from Joseph Family. Can anyone else in Alexander Valley answer the challenge?

KEENAN - Napa Valley

2005 Merlot - Carneros. Nice plummy and toasted herb nose. Fleshy mouthfeel, good balance, kind of soft from mid-palate to finish.

2004 Merlot - Napa Valley. More robust than the Carneros version, as well as riper and fuller on the palate and finish.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Very nice nose of spice-scented dusty currant, with full mouthfeel and nice long finish.

KELLER ESTATE - Sonoma Coast

2005 Syrah - Sonoma County. Nose of leather-infused blackberry, with spice, pepper, espresso and cigar notes in the background. Very Euro-like in nose and mouthfeel (a very good thing), there is a decided Northern Rhone quality to this wine that is indefinable. Suffice to say I'll be looking for some of this.

KENEFICK RANCH - Napa Valley

2005 Merlot - Napa Valley . Beautiful nose of fleshy fruit and some spice. Nice flavors, chewy mouthfeel, nice balance, just slightly pinched on the finish.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley . Beautiful nose of currant, vanilla and toasted spice. Full, rich and ripe on the palate, with excellent balance and long finish.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley . Rich, ripe nose of cassis and spice. Very approachable now, but if the '04 is any example, some time will be rewarded.

KRUPP BROS - Napa Valley

2004 Veraison Merlot - Napa Valley . Very nice nose of plummy fruit. Bit light in body and mouthfeel..

2004 Veraison "Synchrony" - Napa Valley . Roughly 50/50 blend of Cab and Cab Franc, with a lesser amount of Malbec and Merlot. Nicely integrated nose of cassis, toasted herb and spice. Acid-balanced in mouthfeel, this will probably be a delicious food wine, if not exciting on its own.

Comments: produced under the Veraison label, the wines from the Krupp Bros (Stagecoach Vnyd) offer the classic quandry - are better wines made by vineyard owners or those buying the fruit?

KULETO - Napa Valley

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice aromas of cassis and spice. Good balance and finsh.

LAGIER MEREDITH - Napa Valley

2005 Syrah - Mt. Veeder. Nose of blackberry, toasted herb, spice and nice tarry scents. Full and chewy on the palate, with a very nice dark berry flavor profile and long smooth finish.

2005 Lagier Meredith Syrah - Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder. Notes of blueberries, grilled plums, with some earthy pomegranate creeping though on the finish. Balanced with excellent acidity. --PL (90 pts.)

L'ANGEVIN - Napa Valley

2005 L'Angevin Pinot Noir - Russian River Valley. Complex and refined with notes of strawberries, raspberries, red clay, earth, and minerals. A potentially outstanding wine that was unfortunately marred by a hot finish. --PL (89 pts.)

2006 L'Angevin Pinot Noir Sonoma Stage Vineyard - Sonoma Coast. Not exactly sure what was going on with this wine or why it was even being poured, because it was simple, primary, and disjointed. I got some sour cherry fruit out of it, but this wine was all over the place. Bottle shock perhaps? --PL (82 pts.)

LANDMARK - Napa Valley

2006 Landmark Pinot Noir Grand Detour - Sonoma Coast. Notes of strawberries, red clay, and earth. Very bitter on the finish. 85-86 points. --PL (85 pts.)

LARKMEAD - Napa Valley

2005 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle - Napa Valley. 48% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A little green with notes of cassis, wet soil, and tree bark. Not bad, but the green notes did not seem well integrated with the rest of the wine. --PL (87 pts.)

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Rich, ripe and seductive nose of cassis,spice and cocoa. Off-sweet fruit, beautiful integration of flavors, excellent balance and smooth long finish.

LEVENDI - Napa Valley

2004 "Symphonia" Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice cassis nose. Very good mouthfeel, flavors, balance and finish.

2004 "Sweetwater Ranch" Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Richer in the nose than previous wine. Fuller and richer in mouthfeel as well, with lovely mid-palate and finish.

2004 "Stagecoach" Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Even better! The nose seems packed with perfectly ripened fruit. Full and rich on the palate, with excellent balance and long finish.

Comments: as mentioned under the Krupp Bros entry, here's an example of what I feel is a better wine than the one produced by the vineyard owners. Priced at $42, $48, and $68 respectively.

LONDER - Napa Valley

2005 Londer Pinot Noir Estate Grown - Anderson Valley. 50% Swan clone, 50% Dijon clones 115 and 777. This is a really lovely wine, even better than when I tasted it at Pinot Days. Notes of dark cherries over strawberries and crushed minerals. Velvety texture. Very impressive. --PL (91 pts.)

2006 Londer Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - Anderson Valley. Nose a little muted, but on the palate a soft texture accompanying nice raspberry and strawberry fruit. 88-89 points. --PL (88 pts.)

MERRY EDWARDS - Sonoma Co

2006 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - Russian River Valley. One of the more successful 2006s from RRV, in spite of the fact that it was just bottled when tasted. Notes of strawberries, bing cherries and wet soil. Balanced and delicious. --PL (90 pts.)

2006 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - Sonoma Coast. I was told this wine was just bottled, so it may be suffering from a bit of shock. Notes of strawberries, black cherries, apple skins, and pastry dough. Finishes a little angular, but overall quite balanced. --PL (89 pts.)

MICHAUD - Chalone

2003 Michaud Pinot Noir - Chalone. When I tasted this, I asked the winemaker if this was maderized. He said it was fine. It was NOT fine! --PL (74 pts.)

2004 Michaud Pinot Noir - Chalone. This wine was either overextracted and overoaked, or just plain cooked. Either way, it was not very good. --PL (80 pts.)

MILLER - Sonoma Co

2005 Miller Wine Works Pinot Noir Kendric Vineyard - San Francisco Bay, Marin County. When asked which clones went into the wine, the person pouring (winemaker?) said, "All of them." Rubbery, manipulated flavors with a strong finish of cardamom and other hard spices. --PL (83 pts.)

MINER - Napa Valley

2005 Merlot - Napa Valley. Fleshy nose of plums and red fruit. Very good balance, nice fruit profile and good finish.

Comments: yet another Stagecoach Vnyd wine. This time, it was a bit disappointing. The wine is fine, I just expected more oomph.

MITCHELLA - Paso Robles

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Paso Robles. Nearly late harvest ripe nose of red and black fruit. Ripe and a bit sweet on the palate.

Comments: not particularly inspiring, but at $20, it's not going to break the bank either. Too bad they let the fruit hang so long here.

O'SHAUGHNESSEY - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice nose of cassis, toast and spice. Full and even a little chewy in mouthfeel, but seemed a bit weak. Seemed a little reticent, and didn't really wow me this time out.

PAGE - Napa Valley

2004 "Proprietary Red" - Napa Valley. Bdx blend of varietals. Nice dark fruit nose, with mildly complex background notes. Good mouthfeel, balance and finish.

2005 "Revolver" - Napa Valley. All Cab Franc, and quite aromatic and tasty - with toasted herbs and none of that excessive green pepper.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. This is 90% Cab, and definitely has more heft on the palate. Very good flavors, balance and finish.

PALMAZ - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice Cab aromas, decent flavors - maybe a little thin on the palate.

PARALLEL - Napa Valley

2005 Pinot Noir - Napa Valley . Elegant nose of cassis and allspice. Nice mouthfeel - not particularly chewy, but good balance and finish.

PISONI - Santa Lucia Highlands

2006 Pinot Noir - Santa Lucia Highlands. Rich, juicy and spicy, a bit closed in mouthfeel, but loaded with fruit and spice.

PUNK DOG - Napa & Sonoma

2001 "Sophie's Riddle" - Sonoma Co . Blend of Merlot and Petite Sirah. Fruity nose, something like a kitchen sink blend. A little strange in taste too - sort of a Alicante Bouchet meets Chianti.

2002 "Sophie's Romp" - Napa/Sonoma. Fairly ripe nose of 100% Cab here. Has a bit of the soft fruitiness I associate with Sonoma Cab, along with a more drying mouthfeel and structure from Napa. The upshot is I find this more drinkable than the Riddler.

Comments: okay, this was my other "must stop" on the circuit. I mean, com'n, with a name like Punk Dog, and some odd blends, I had to see just how serious this stuff would be. Well, these are fun wines...period.

RENTERIA - Napa Valley

2002 "Tres Perlas" Cab - Stag's Leap. Elegant, rich nose of currant, spice and cocoa. Lovely mouthfeel, excellent balance and long silky finish. A fascinating wine, and another entry in the over-$100 club.

REVANA - Napa Valley

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley . Rich off-sweet nose of cassis, toast and spice. Medium-full body, excellent balance, and long luxurious finish. Very nice.

REYNOLDS - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Stags Leap. Slightly to the ripe side of things, but very nice aromatics and flavors. Beautiful balance, nice long finish. Nice!

RICHARD PERRY - Napa Valley

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Lovely nose of ripe dark fruit, along with touches of spice and toast. Excellent balance throughout, and long tasty finish. Very nice '03!

ROCCA FAMILY - Napa Valley

2003 Rocca Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley, Yountville. A bit on the ripe side, but it manages to hold it all together. Dense and chewy notes of cassis, plum jam, and raisins. --PL (90 pts.)

2004 Rocca Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Beautiful aromas introduce a luscious core of plum jam, cherry liqueur, cassis, and dark chocolate. Like drinking Godiva chocolate truffles. --PL (93 pts.)

2003 Rocca Family Vineyards Syrah - Napa Valley, Yountville. Seductive aromas of baked bread and espresso are followed my plum puree and mocha on the palate. Really outstanding juice! --PL (92 pts.)

2004 Rocca Family Vineyards Syrah - Napa Valley, Yountville. Notes of plum jam, red currants, dark chocolate, and a touch espresso. Plush texture. 91-92 points. --PL (91 pts.)

ROCKLEDGE - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Dark and rich in the nose, with bit of spice and cocoa. Rich in mouthfeel, nice balance, tasty cocoa-infused flavors, nice long finish.

Comments: located off Silverado Trail, the wine seems to have a similarity in profile to the nearby Joseph Phelps. The wines are made by Michael Hirby.

ROESSLER - Sonoma Co

2006 Roessler Pinot Noir La Brisa - Sonoma Coast. On the simple side, but still pretty good. Notes of dark cherries and cola. --PL (86 pts.)

2006 Roessler Pinot Noir Griffin's Lair - Sonoma Coast. Opens with a little bit of a funk, but then evolves and exhibits nice notes of sour cherries, dark cherries, and apple skin. The fruit seems a little underdeveloped here. --PL (87 pts.)

2006 Roessler Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch - Russian River Valley. Notes of apple skin, earth, and crushed minerals. Searing acidity. Very underdeveloped fruit here. --PL (86 pts.)

2006 Roessler Pinot Noir Sanford and Benedict - Santa Rita Hills. My least favorite of the line-up. Notes of dark cherries and apple skin, with an Alka-Seltzer-like finish. --PL (84 pts.)

SADDLEBACK - Napa Valley

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Big, bold and sinewy, with plenty of grip throughout. This is the way Cabernet used to be made. You usually need a 'wayback machine' to find a big chewy Cab like this.

SANTA CRUZ MTN - Santa Cruz Mtns

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Santa Cruz Mtns. Nose of dark fruit, with a peppery and toasty quality. Full in mouthfeel, nice red and black fruit with good balance and long finish.

SAVANAH CHANELLE - Santa Cruz Mtns

2005 Savannah Chanelle Vineyards Pinot Noir Tina Marie Vineyard - Russian River Valley. This wine differed considerably from the 2006 RRV, but I liked it just the same. Juicy notes of strawberries, raspberries, red clay, and leather. Great texture in this elegant wine. --PL (91 pts.)

2006 Savannah Chanelle Vineyards Pinot Noir - Russian River Valley. I was rather impressed with this producer. Juicy notes of raspberries, bing cherries, cola, and crushed minerals. Mouth-watering and delicious! --PL (91 pts.)

SOJOURN - Sonoma Co

2006 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - Sonoma Coast. Notes of dark cherries, toffee, and caramel. Nice fruit concentration and texture. A little soft on the finish, however. 87-88 points. --PL (87 pts.)

2006 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - Sonoma Coast. I'm not really a huge fan of this vineyard, as I find it a bit too sauvage, but I did enjoy this wine. Comprised of Dijon clones 115 and 777. Notes of strawberry puree, wet earth, apple skin, and vanillin oak. Nice acidity and finish. 89-90 points. --PL (89 pts.)

2005 Sojourn Cabernet Sauvignon - Sonoma Valley. An elegant and well-made Cabernet with notes of red currants, blackberries, and black cherries with earth and herbal accents. Tannins tasted a little green to me, but the texture is very nice. 88-89 points. --PL (89 pts.)

2005 Sojourn Cabernet Sauvignon Home Ranch - Sonoma Valley. Bigger and more structured than the regular Cab, with deep notes of black currants, blackberries, sandalwood, sweet tobacco, and vanillin oak. Pretty tannic at this stage but well-textured. 89-90 points. --PL (90 pts.)

SPANN - Sonoma Valley

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa/Sonoma. Nose of black and red fruit, with lots of toast and spice. Initially astringent, but softens a bit at mid-palate and has a nice long finish.

SPENCE - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Howell Mtn . Nice nose of cassis and toasted herb. A bit Claret-like in mouthfeel, good flavors and balance, and long finish. Given the mountain fruit, I expected a little more weight on this one.

SPRING MOUTAIN - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Nice, if unremarkable nose and mouthfeel. A bit easy-going on the palate, decent flavors, balance and finish. Where's the old Spring Mtn?

THOMPKIN - Santa Barbara Co

2006 Thompkin Cellars Grenache - Santa Barbara County. The bottled version turned out even better than the barrel sample I had 3 months ago. Denser and darker than the sample, with concentrated notes of strawberry and raspberry jam, exotic brown spices, and with a hint of wet soil and espresso on the finish. A rich and decadent wine -- loved it! 93-94 points. --PL (93 pts.)

2006 Thompkin Cellars Syrah - Santa Barbara County. This wine turned out bigger and better than the barrel sample I had 3 months ago. Huge aromas reminiscent of Côte-Rôtie followed by notes of blueberries, ripe plums, and candied necklaces. An exuberant and lavish wine. --PL (91 pts.)

2004 Thompkin Cellars Cabernet Franc Couchant - Santa Barbara County. Notes of black currant, tree bark, and wet soil. Seems to have picked up more weight compared to the last time I tasted it. 89-90 points. --PL (89 pts.)

TURCHI - Santa Barbara Co

2006 Turchi Cabernet Sauvignon - Santa Barbara County. Classic Cab notes of cassis, dark cherry, sage and bay leaves. --PL (88 pts.)

2006 Turchi Syrah - Santa Barbara County. Tangy red fruits with a good dose of white and black pepper onthe finish. Very good, but not very memorable as a wine. --PL (87 pts.)

VERGARI - Sonoma Co/Marin Co

2005 Vergari Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - Sonoma Coast. Admittedly, this is not my favorite vineyard. Rustic notes of animal and earth wrapped a core of red fruits. --PL (86 pts.)

2005 Vergari Pinot Noir Van der Kamp Vineyard - Sonoma Mountain. An elegant wine with notes of apple skin and earthy red fruits. Odd Alka-Seltzer-like finish. --PL (87 pts.)

VIE - Napa Valley

2006 Vie Winery Grenache L'Imaginaire - Santa Barbara County. A delicious Grenache. Notes of black raspberries, strawberry coulis, crushed minerals, and grilled meats. Very well done. --PL (91 pts.)

2006 Vie Winery Syrah Las Madres Vineyard - Carneros. Candied notes of blue fruits and vanilla with some pink peppercorns on the finish. --PL (88 pts.)

VISION - Various AVAs

2006 Vision Cellars Pinot Noir - Sonoma County. Notes of sour cherries, earth, and crushed minerals. Very nice on the attack, but finishes rather short. --PL (88 pts.)

2006 Vision Cellars Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard - Santa Lucia Highlands. I loved the textural plushness of this wine. Hedonistic yet restrained, with notes of sweet cherries, black raspberries, cocoa powder, and citrus. 90-91 points. --PL (90 pts.)

ZAHTILA - Napa Valley

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Very nice spice-infused cassis nose, with hints of spice and toast. Full in mouthfeel, very nice flavors, balance and finish.

2004 "Beckstoffer" Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley. Packed with dark fruit and spice, along with a nice toasted bread quality. Nicely ripened flavors, excellent balance and finish.

 


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