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WINES TASTED

Adelaida
Alban
Andrew Adam
Alvaro Palacios
Andrew Rich
Anglim
Arcadian
Bassetti
Benjamin Silver
Caernarvon
Cayuse
Cedarville
Domaine Clavel

Eaglepoint Ranch
E. Guigal

Falcone
Garretson
Havens
Hearthstone
Hug
JC Cellars
Kaena
Kilikanoon
Kunin
L'Aventure
Lagier Meredith
Linne Calodo
Marilyn Remark
McPrice Myers
Michael Grace

Miner
Ojai

Paul Young

Pax
Pikes
Red Car
Ridge

Roar
Saxum
Shadow Canyon
Silver Stone
Stolpman
Tablas Creek
Terre Rouge
White Hawk

2005 HOSPICE DU RHÔNE - PASO ROBLES, CA -

Notes and brief impressions from two Rhône varietal tastings - the Library/Barrel Auction Prieview Tasting and the Grand Tasting, held at the Thirteenth annual Hospice du Rhône on Friday & Saturday, May 13 & 14, 2005, in Paso Robles, CA. This annual event draws Rhône wine producers and wine enthusiasts from around the world to see, hear and taste what's new in Syrah, Grenache, and twenty other Rhône varietals.

In Review - 2005 HdR :

Hundreds of wines were available at each of the two tastings - in fact, there was a total of nearly 600 wines being poured over the two days. For a fee of $75 per event, the HdR venue is perhaps the best of its focus, and arguably the only opportunity to taste such a wide spectrum of Rhône varietals - and in great depth. The brief tasting notes here for 109 wines from 44 wineries have been compiled from both of this year's tastings - the Library & Auction Preview, and the Grand Tasting.

Ordinarily, my routine at the HdR tastings is to try and get to the major players before their tables become too busy. However, this year I decided to take a different approach, and tried to seek out many of the unsung smaller wineries, to see who or what might be waiting in the wings to take the stage next year. I figured I could always get back to the popular places toward the end of each of the tastings. Well, call it poor planning, call it blind luck - there were just so many of the newer or smaller wineries to cover, that I wasn't able to get back to visit the 'big guys.' And, I'm not so sure that was a bad thing. Afterall, discovering new wines and/or new wineries is always a pleasant surprise.

Overall Impressions: these tastings are always among the best! Judging by both of these tastings as well as the four seminars, it seems that 2003 will be as good or better as 2002 for California wines. Several growers are now getting into the wine-making arena. Among them, the three "H's" Halter, Hoage, and Hearthstone seem poised to make excellent wines from the Paso Robles area. Another one to watch is Shadow Canyon, from the York Mountain appellation, between Paso and the Ocean.

Some Favorites

GRENACHE :
2003 Eaglepoint - Estate
2002 Kaena - Beckmen
2003 McPrice Myers - Larner
2003 Saxum "Rocket Block"
2003 Shadow Canyon - Larner

SYRAH :
2002 Adelaida - Viking
2003 Alban - Seymour's
2002 Andrew Rich Reserve
2002 Arcadian - Sleepy Hollow
2004 Caernarvon - Eaglepoint
1999 Havens - Napa
2003 Hug - Bassetti
2003 JC Cellars - Ventana
2003 JC Cellars - Philary
2004 Pax - Alder Springs "The Knob"
2003 Red Car "The Fight"
2002 Roar
2003 Shadow Canyon - Shadow Cyn

RHÔNE BLENDS :
2002 L'Aventure Coté a Coté
2004 L'Aventure/Tablas Creek

OTHER NOTABLES :
2003 Adelaida Gr.Blanc/Roussanne
2003 Anglim Viognier - Fralich
2003 Hearthstone Roussanne
2004 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc

Although I didn't get by too many tables of Australian or French producers, what I did taste was excellent. And, even though I skipped several of the major California producers in order to expand my coverage, I suppose any lack of breadth on my part merely points out the difficult logictics in getting to each and every one of the producers that attend this event. There really isn't any way to cover a tasting as large and diverse as this in what seems like a brief three-hour period. That said, even if there were more time allotted, palate fatigue would likely overcome even the most experienced taster before too long. Apparently, there has been "talk" of splitting the Grand Tasting by some method into two events. Just how that would be accomplished remains to be seen.

Finally, I didn't score any of the wines tasted at either of these two events. My general impressions are probably expressed well enough in each of the notes. Besides that, I've actually been told that I "like everything," ...as if that were a bad thing!

OVERHEARD AT 2005 HDR:

  • "It's 1:00 in the morning - it must be Alvaro time."
  • "Who said real men don't eat quiche and drink pink."
  • "Speaking of big balls, where's Mat?"
  • "It's not really a crowd -- it's more of a mob!"
  • "Priorat makes farming in Germany look easy."
  • "This will really piss-off the French when our vineyards are so close."
Selected Tasting Notes
Adelaida

2002 Grenache Blanc/Roussanne. Light floral and honey aromas. Slightly crisp mouthfeel, beautiful balance, honeysuckle and pineapple flavor, nice finish.

2004 Grenache Blanc/Roussanne. Some honeyed wax in the nose. Very crisp mouthfeel, great balance, long finish.

2004 Viognier. (barrel sample) Lovely nose of white peach with floral notes. Excellent balance of fruit and acids, long finish.

2002 Rhone Style Blend. Lots of cherry fruit in nose and mouth, this blend seems very Pinot-like taste and structure. Largely a Mourvedre-based GSM, with about 11% Counoise.

2002 Syrah. Lightly sweet blackberry nose, with touches of spice and berry throughout. Tasty mouthfeel, good balance, nice long finish.

2002 Syrah Reserve - Viking Estate. Brooding intense nose of dark fruit, with a hint of anise and toasted herb. Gripping on the palate, plenty of chewy fruit, nice smooth finish.

Comments: the quality at Adelaida has been steadily improving over the last few years. These are some really nice wines.

Alban

2003 Seymour's Syrah. Cocoa-infused spicy blackberry in the nose. Smooth silky texture on the palate, excellent balance, smooth long finish.

Andrew Adam

2002 Syrah - Edna Valley. Nice espresso scent to the dark fruit in the nose. Rich and meaty mouthfeel, long smooth finish.

2003 Syrah - California. Fascinating nose of blackberry, raspberry, and light notes of iodine and beet. Chewy mouthfeel, nice balance, long finish.

Comments: this assistant winemaker at Alban is making some very nice things on his own.

Alvaro Palacios

(see seminar notes: Palacios)

Andrew Rich

2003 Roussanne - Columbia Valley. Lots of honeyed waxy qualities in the nose, delicious flavors, lightly crisp finish.

2002 Coup d'Etat - Columbia Valley. Nice GSM, with plenty of black and red fruit, very good balance, and long finish.

2002 Syrah - Columbia Valley. Touch of oak on the otherwise nice smoky nose. A bit light in mouthfeel - almost Pinot-like.

2002 Syrah Reserve - Columbia Valley. That's more like it. Smoky and rich nose and mouth, excellent balance, and long full finish.

Anglim

2003 Viognier - Bien Nacido. Pretty nose of floral and tropical aromas. Nice pineapple fruit, crisp on the palate, long finish.

2003 Viognier - Fralich. Somewhat more expansive than the B/N, crisper and and a bit more minerally too.

2002 Syrah - Fralich. Blackberry and blueberry fruit in nose and mouth. Good balance - surprisingly crisp on the palate, nice long finish.

2003 Syrah - French Camp. More to the black and red fruit side of things, with lots of ripe fruit.

Arcadian

2002 Syrah - Sleepy Hollow. Fabulous nose of smoky fruit and herbs. Rich mouthfeel, with lots of fruit, super balance and long finish.

2001 Syrah - Garys'. A bit sweeter and juicier that the Sleepy Hollow, same weight on the palate, excellent balance and finish.

Bassetti

2002 Syrah "Madolyn". Nose of blackberry, pepper, and lightly smoked herbs. Herb-infused fruit on the palate, very nice balance, and long smoky finish.

2003 Syrah "Madolyn". Sweeter, slightly riper nose than the '02. Less ripeness in mouthfeel, with obvious pepper-infused dark fruit, and long finish.

Benjamin Silver

2001 Mourvedre. Smoked meat and touch of jerky compliment the black and red fruit in the nose. Well balanced, with juicy acidity, and long finish.

Caernarvon Cellars

2004 Syrah - Blue Oaks. Lightly sweet and smoky nose. Lots of blackberry fruit throughout, gripping finish.

2004 Syrah - Eaglepoint. Gorgeous fruit, thick and chewy mouthfeel, massive structure, needs time.

2004 Syrah - Arroyo Seco. Nice fruit, much more to the herb side of things, with sage and a little rhubarb in the nose. Full mouthfeel, good balance and finish.

Comments: some very nice, and really big wines from Larry Roberts.

Cayuse

2002 Syrah - Cailloux. Sweet dark fruit in nose and mouth. Very accessible on the palate, nice balance and finish.

2002 Syrah - En Cerise. Tighter than the Cailloux, darker in fruit profile and slightly better balance, smooth finish.

2002 Syrah - En Chamberlin. Tightest of the trio, with a little rusticity in the fruit, and edgy balance. Nice long gripping finish.

Cedarville

2000 Viognier. Lovely crispness, with lots of stone fruit and just a touch minerallity.

2000 Syrah. Beautifully aging, there is plenty of blackberry pie in nose and mouth, very nice balance and smooth tasty finish.

Domaine Clavel

(see seminar notes: Domaine Clavel)

Eaglepoint Ranch

2004 Rose. Wow, almost Tavel-like in nose and mouthfeel, with lovely floral and cherry notes, meaty texture, excellent balance and long finish.

2003 Grenache. Plenty of raspberry and spice in the nose. Delicious flavors on palate, very nice balance and finish.

2001 Syrah. Lots of minerals come through in the nose, really punching up the dark fruit. Peppery and spicy mouthfeel, with excellent balance and finish.

2002 Petite Sirah. Nose of dark fruit and just a touch of dark olive. Nice and smooth on the palate, plenty of chewy textures, and long smooth finish.

2004 Grenache . (barrel sample.) Tighter than '03, but seems fruitier too. Nice chewy raspberry and black cherry, with an edgy balance and long finish.

2004 Petite Sirah. (barrel sample.) Alert! This wine will grip your tongue and only begrudgingly let it go. Packed with massive fruit, if the '02 is this tasty now, I can hardly wait for this one.

E. Guigal

1997 Cote Rotie, Ch. D'Ampuis. Nice roasted herbs compliment the dark fruit in the nose and mouth. Lively on the palate, with nice lingering finish.

Falcone

2002 Syrah. Nice scent of sage in the blackberry nose. Generous mouthfeel, very nice balance and finish.

2003 Syrah. Noce of herbs and blackberry. Full mouthfeel, plenty of fruit, very good balance and finish. Seemingly more complex than the '02, but still a little tight in its youth.

Garretson

2000 Syrah "The Aisling". Beautiful nose of black fruit, with a touch of anise and tar. Just ripe enough on the palate, with nice long finish.

Havens

1999 Syrah - Napa. Fantastic nose of dark fruit and chocolate mocha. Lots of roasted flavors on the palate, very good balance, picks up some tartness on the long finish.

Hearthstone

2003 Roussanne. Nice floral honeyed nose. Lightly waxy honeyed mouthfeel, beautiful balance, and long finish.

2003 Viognier. Nose of flowers and white peach. More tropical in mouthfeel, with very good balance and finish.

2003 Grenache/Syrah Blend. Nose of red and black fruit - nice ripeness. Chewy on the palate, good balance and finish.

2003 Syrah. Effusive blackberry nose, rich mouthfeel, and smooth long finish.

Comments: these new kids on the block have 40 acres planted right next door to Tablas Creek. Look for this vineyard to show up on other labels as well.

Hug Cellars

2003 Syrah - Bassetti. Nose of dark berry, sage the barest hint of lemon grass. Peppery, with a bit of spice and herb o nthe palate, this is immediately accessible, so you'll need to stash it away quick before you drink it all.

JC Cellars

2003 Syrah - Rockpile. Minerally and almost Petite-like, with lots of chewy fruit throughout.

2003 Syrah - Fess Parker. Sweet and ripe to the nose, plenty of black and red fruit, nice balance and finish.

2003 Syrah - Ventana. More herbed than the previous bottlings, with nice espresso scent and rich mouthfeel.

2003 Syrah - Philary. Almost GSM-like in the nose, with intermingled red and black fruit. Chewy mouthfeel, with a lightly roasted beet quality, and earthy minerally flavors.

Kaena

2002 Roussanne. Nice honeyed waxy flavors, with a light crispness, very good balance and long almost meaty finish.

2004 Grenache Rose - SYV. Nice medium rose color. Light and crisp on the palate, nice fruit, and good flavors and finish.

2002 Grenache - Beckmen. Very nice red raspberry nose and flavors, excellent acidity, long tasty finish.

2003 Grenache - Camp 4. Nose of red and black fruit, nice ripeness, with raspberry and pomegranate flavors and long finish.

2003 Syrah - Larner. Nose of blackberry and wet stone. Minerally in mouthfeel, with fabulous balance of fruit and acidity, and long finish.

2003 Syrah - Hearthstone. More ripe in nose and mouth than the Larner, but chewier and plusher as well. Excellent stuff.

Comments: Mikael Sigouin, assistant winemaker at Beckmen, is doing some very nice things here under his own label.

Kilikanoon

(see seminar notes: Kilikanoon)

Kunin Wines

2004 Viognier - Stolpman. Nice lemon meringue scent to the light tropical aromas. Rich, yet crisp in mouthfeel, and very balanced finish.

L'Aventure

2002 Optimus. This blend of Syrah, Cab, and Zin is loaded with red and black fruit, big and chewy mouthfeel, smooth and tasty throughout its very long finish.

2002 Syrah. Huge blackberry nose, with touches of herb and licorice. Rich and full on the palate, plenty of oak influences, but wears it very well through the huge long finish

2003 Coté a Coté. Nose of this GSM blend is filled with blackberry compote and chocolate. Rich and lightly sweet in mouthfeel, with a hint of bittersweet chocolate on the huge long finish.

Lagier Meredith

1999 Syrah. Lovely spiced dark fruit with hints of herb and anise. Beautifully developed, smooth and brimming with fruit, excellent balance and finish.

2002 Syrah. Nose of blackberry and bittersweet chocolate, with a touch of licorice. Chewy rich mouthfeel, very nice balance,and very long finish.

2003 Syrah. (barrel sample) Well, the streak continues. A little tighter than the '02, but very similar in profile, with lots of dark fruit, and touches of chocolate and licorice.

Comments: hey, Steve, I think I like these wines!

Linne Calodo

(see seminar notes: Linne Calodo)

Marilyn Remark

2004 Roussanne. Light honey and waxy notes. Interesting light toasty component adds to the already tasty fruit.

2004 Marsanne. Similar waxy sense in nose and mouth, but the more floral, flowery and earthy than the Roussanne, and alittle fatter in mouthfeel.

2004 Rose. Beautiful color, with 60/40 Syrah/Grenache.

2003 Grenache. A bit tight, but showing lots of red raspberry and pomegranate in the nose and mouth, with very nice balance and finish.

2003 Syrah. Beautiful smoky and lightly charred blackberry nose, with just a touch of coffee. Lots of dark fruit, beautiful balance, and very long tasty finish.

2003 Petite Sirah. Surprisingly accessible and smooth on the palates. Lots of creamy dark fruit, nice balance and very long finish.

Comments: Joel Burnstein is making some very nice wines, sourced from Monterey Co. fruit.

McPrice Myers

2003 Grenache - Larner. Sweet raspberry nose. Nearly perfect ripeness, lots of red raspberry fruit, ery good balance and finish.

2003 Syrah - Larner. Nose of Blackberry and blueberry. Big mouthfeel, very well balanced, blueberry much more obvious, long finish.

Michael Grace

2003 Syrah. Somewhat cloyingly sweet nose of blueberry and blackberry. Round and fat on the palate, good balance, slightly soft fruit, medium-long finish.

 

Miner

2004 Rhone Blend. (Auction Lot #7.) About 75% Syrah, this GSM blend had very nice balance, lots of fruit, smooth long finish.

2004 Syrah - Stagecoach. (Auction Lot #8.) Fabulous nose of dark fruit with a touch of herbs, and a hint of licorice. Full and rich on the palate, excellent balance, long smooth finish.

Ojai

2002 Vin du Soleil. Nice lightly gamey nose of red and some black fruit. This GSM Rhone blend seems to hit all the high points with great aromas, flavors, and textures. Mostly Mourvedre.

2002 Syrah - White Hawk. Nose of blackberry, pepper, and a touch of sage. Peppery and spicy mouthfeel, nice balance, bit of meat on the finish.

Paul M. Young

2003 La Curio "The Nubile"- McLaren Vale. GSM Rhone blend, made in more of a claret style, with very good balance, good flavors, and long finish.

2002 Terros - Montsant. Another GSM blend, this one seems a bit more gutsy and rustic than the Aussie version. Touches of orange peel on the nose, good balance and finish.

2001 Dom. Les Aphillanthes. Yet another GSM, this one's co-fermented and the flavors do seem to meld well. Very nice!

2001 St. Damien - Gigondas. Mostly Grenache, the raspberry gets a higher tone with the notes of orange zest and clove.

2001 Durand - Cornas. Lots of roasted and charred notes in the nose, less so in mouthfeel, but very interesting blend of herbed fruit, good balance, long finish.

Pax

2004 Syrah "The Knob" - Alder Springs. Fabulous nose of blackberry, coffee, mocha, and a touch of cake spice. Full and rich mouthfeel, delicious flavors, excellent balance and smooth long finish.

(also, see seminar notes: Pax)

Pikes

(see seminar notes: Pikes)

Red Car

2003 Syrah - "All Night Radio". Slightly sweet nose and mouthfeel. Lots of red and black fruit, smooth and rich, good balance, long smooth finish.

2003 Syrah - "The Fight". Nose of dark fruit, coffee and spices, this one's a bit more European than the ANR, though still ripe and rich in mouthfeel, with a smooth long finish.

Ridge

2001 Carignan. Smoky notes add to the slightly sweet rustic quality in the nose. Full on the palate, slightly monolithic.

2001 Grenache - Lytton. Sweet and ripe in both nose and mouth, almost more of a friendly Zin in its structure and flavors.

2000 Syrah - Lytton. Nice blackberry fruit, a bit high-toned in style, chewy on the palate, nice long finish.

2000 Petite Sirah - York Creek. Lovely bouquet of black fruit and pipe tobacco. Rich, if a bit monolithic on the palate, nice balance and finish.

Roar

2003 Syrah - SLH. Slightly sweet and ripe in the nose. Plenty of black fruit, with touches of cake spice, chewy mouthfeel, very nice balance, and long smooth finish.

Saxum

2003 Syrah - Broken Stones. Nose of black and red fruit - seems a bit high-toned. Rich mouthfeel, a bit austere at present, nicely balanced with a long finish.

2003 Syrah - Rocket Block. This Grenache-based blend jumps from the glass with raspberry and blackberry aromas, and a touch of chocolate. Full and rich in mouthfeel, nice long smooth finish.

Comments: I know what you're asking yourself - how could he miss trying the Bone Rock. Well, with the table crowd the way it was, I was lucky to taste these two.

Shadow Canyon

2003 Syrah - Central Coast. Nice sweet blackberry nose, with touches of smoke and licorice. A bit stiff in structure, but nicely balanced, with long finish.

2003 Syrah - Shadow Canyon. Huge nose of dark fruit, pepper and spice. Even bigger in mouthfeel, with lots of gutsy fruit, very good balance and huge long finish.

2003 Grenache - Larner. This wine rivaled the Shadow Cyn Syrah for sheer size. Rich, and to the darker side of red fruit, packed with black and red raspberry fruit, lots of mouthfeel, very good balance, big long finish.

Comments: another taster steered me to these folks, and I'm glad he found them. Their own vineyard is in the York Mtn AVA, between Paso and coast.

Silver Stone

2002 Syrah - Hall Ranch. Sweet and smoky nose, with lots of chewy slightly soft fruit, very good balance, and long finish.

2003 Syrah - Paso Robles. More anise, licorice, tar end of the spectrum than the Hall version, nicely balanced and smooth long finish.

Stolpman

2003 Syrah. Tons of dark fruit on the nose, slightly soft and round on the palate, very smooth throughout, nice long tasty finish.

Tablas Creek Vineyard

2000 Clos Blanc. Lightly tropical nose of peach and pear, rich mouthfeel, and crisp finish.

1999 Reserve Cuvee. This GSM blend has plenty fo red and black fruit in the nose. Still young in mouthfeel, but very accessible, smooth long finsh.

2004 L'Aventure & Tablas Creek Red Rhône Blend. Auction Lot #13. A blend of 60% Mourvedre from Tablas Creek, and 40% Syrah from L'Aventure went into this rich and plush wine. Fabulous nose of dark fruit, new leather, and herbs. Full and chewy in mouthfeel, excellent balance and finish.

2004 Rose. Nice meaty quality from this Mourvedre-based Rose comes through in both nose and mouth. Crisp mouthfeel, very tasty stuff!

2003 Esprit de Baucastel Blanc. Rich nose and mouthfeel, lots of floral accents to the peach and apricot notes. Full and rich on the palate, nice long finish.

2003 Roussanne. Lightly sweet floral-honeyed nose, light chew to the mouthfeel, good acids, nice crisp finish.

2004 Grenache Blanc. Lightly sweet lemon-lime and floral-honeyed nose, good acids, nice crisp finish.

2002 Esprit de Baucastel. The 57% Mourvedre in this blend adds some light smoked meaty and barnyardy notes to the red and black fruit. Big and rich on the palate, with a chewy smooth finish.

2003 Syrah. This first bottling of a varietal name is intended for more for the entry-level or restaurant crowd. Smooth, not overly extracted, balanced nicely, smooth finish.

2003 Mourvedre . Light gamey and leather notes in nose. Smooth mouthfeel, lots of dark cherry fruit, long finish.

Terre Rouge

1995 Mourvedre - Amador Co. Nice notes of game and leather accent the fruit in the nose. Still lots of fruit and mouthfeel, aging very nicely.

1995 Syrah - Sentinel Oak. Nice sweetness in nose and mouth, seems fuller than the Syrah in mouthfeel, very good balance, smooth finish.

White Hawk

2001 Syrah - Estate. Nose of blackberry and light gamey and herb aromas. Chewy in mouthfeel, nice balance, long finish.

 


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