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by
Tom Hill
A
self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico
and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National
Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale
code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates
locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area,
and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals,
such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and
ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport
fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing,
backpacking, mountain climbing.
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Some New (Unusual) Whites - July 19, 2006
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We
tasted last night (7/19/06) Some New (Unusual) Whites:
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Txomin Etxaniz Getariako Txakolina DOC: Getariako
Txakolina (EB; 11.5%) 2005: Pale
yellow color; clean minerally/stoney rather floral/citric
bit herbal almost Albarino-
like nose; rich very tart/steely/minerally grapefruity/citrus
stoney flavor; med.short
stoney/citric/steely finish; rich but austere stoney bit
floral/fragrant wine;
has terroir in spades; bright/zesty/zippy white. $20.00
__________________
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Urindo DdO Bizkaika Txakolina Ibarretxe Zarriketa/Zaratamo/Bizkaia
(11%;
70% FolleBlanche, 25% HondarribiZuri, 5% SauvignonBlanc;
MailetaMahasti Vnyd; 12%;
www.DeMaisonSelections) Roberto Ibarretxe/Uriondo NV:
Light gold color; bit H2S/stinky
light earthy rather charred/burnt/oak bit SO2/oxidized low
fruit nose; very tart/
grapefruity/citric no fruit bit stoney flavor; very short
screechy/acid grapefruity/
citric no fruit finish; a bit hertey to drink; strange.
$14.00
__________________
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Mont Corvin Matterhorn Fendant du Valais (12%) Charles
Bonvin/Sion/Suisse 2005: Pale
yellow color; light floral rather stoney/minerally nose;
lean/acid off-dry light/
bright/zippy light floral 7Up flavor; med. bright/acid/zippy
green/austere stoney/
minerally finish; a gtood fondue wine; interesting &
austere. $16.00
__________________
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Chateau Bela Riesling Sturovo Region/Muzla/Slovakia
(13%; Slovenske vyberove vino
neskory zber) P&B by EgonMuller 2002: Light
gold color; lovely/beautiful Mosel valve
oil/minerally very floral/R/pineapply spicy/complex nose;
rich/lush spicy/floral/
Mosel valve oil very spicy/floral/R lovely slightly off-dry
flavor; very long rich/
lush Mosel valve oil/pineapply bit minerally finish; beautiful
wine; tastes like
a Slovak wine made in the Mosel; very attractive price.
$27.00
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Kofererhof PinotGrigio DOC: AltoAdige Valle Isarco (14%)
2004:
Light gold color;
pleasant minerally/floral/aromatic slight earthy nose; soft
floral/pineapply/spicy
some minerally/metallic lovely flavor; long minerally/floral/aromatic
finish; lots
more fragrance and terroir than most It PG; lovely wine.
$25.50
__________________
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Borgo Magredo PinotGrigio DOC: Friuli/Grave (12%)
2004: Med.gold color; some toasty/
oak spicy/floral/appley bit minerally/earthy nose; soft
earthy/minerally/floral slight
toasty/oak green apple flavor; med. light toasty/oak soft
light floral bit earthy
finish; attractive interesting white at a good price. $13.00
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Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne-Aligote (12.5%) 2004:
Med.gold color; light low-key
minerally/stoney/chalky light oak nose; tart/citric/austere
earthy/minerally some
Chablis-like flavor; tart/lean/citric/austere steely/minerally
no fruit finish; much
like a minor Chablis but little fruit. $20.00
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French Rabbit Chard VdPd'Oc (12.5%) 2004:
Light gold color; pleasant/melony/Chard
simple bit earthy nose; soft light/fruity/melony/Chard dry
bit earthy flavor; short
light melony/Chard soft bit earthy finish; a pleasant Chard
for the price; blows away
the 2$Chuck Chard any day. $8.00/1 L Tetra-Pak
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Emilio Bulfon Cividin VdT Bianco (13%) NV(??):
Med.light gold color; light floral/
earthy bit H2S/SO2 rather earthy interesting nose; very
ripe pineapply/floral/earthy
very spicy/rich off-dry complex flavor; long ripe/pineapply/appley/floral
off-dry
slight earthy finish; very interesting wine w/ lots of ripeness.
$22.00
__________________
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Emilio Bulfon Sciaglin VeneziaGiulia (13.5: www.VinoTerra.net;
www.bulfon.it) 2003:
Med.gold color; slight earthy/dusty bit H2S/funky slight
floral/earthy/hazelnutty
minerally older Marsanne-like nose; soft bit quinine/bitter
earthy/floral slight ripe/
pineapply interesting flavor; long pineapply/earthy slight
bitter finish; rather
interesting but not that distinctive. $19.00
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Edi Simcic Takaj Goriska Brda/Slovenia (13.5%) 2002:
Light gold color; earthy/dusty
Marsanne-like light butterscotchy/caramel/oak slight oxidized/nutty
some floral/
perfumed complex nose; soft beautiful/lush earthy/Marsanne-like
bit appley/hazelnutty
complex flavor; very long/lingering slight metallic/minerally
bit nutty/earthy some
appley complex finish; very interesting/lovely white. $35.00
__________________
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Edi Simcic Rebula Riserva (13.5%) 2002:
Med.gold color; earthy/dusty low-key/low-fruit
some oaked/caramel nose; soft/rich/lush light floral/perfumed
rather earthy/dusty slight
nutty some caramel/oakvanilla flavor; med.long earthy/dusty
slight floral bit oaked
finish; far less interesting than the Takaj. Pricey at $38.00
__________________
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Movia Sauvignon Goriska Brda/Slovenia (12.5%) 2003:
Med.gold slight cloudy color; very
attractive floral/aromatic mango/tropical fruit slight herbal/SantaBarbara
SB ripe
interesting nose; tart bit thin attractive mango/tropical
fruit/spicy light herbal
flavor; med.long ripe/tropical fruit/mango finish; very
interesting/attractive white;
lots of tropical fruit character and much like a ripe SantaBarbara
SB. $24.00
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Marco Felluga Molamatta DOC: Collio Bianco (13.5%;
40% TocaiFriuliano, 40% PinotBianco,
20% RibillaGialla; www.MarcoFelluga.It) 2004: Light
color; very fragrant/floral/pineapply
some SantaBarbara/herbal light oak/vanilla nose; soft pineapply/floral
slight earthy/
herbal flavor; med.long floral/pineapply/earthy bit lean
finish; very interesting
white at an attractive price. $20.00
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- Agricolas
Vino Bianco da Tavola di Sardegna Angialis WhiteTableWine
of Sardinia
(13.5%) 1997: Burnished gold slight brown color;
intense peachy/apricotty/orangey very
ripe beautiful/complex nose; slightly sweet bit alcoholic
intense orangey/mango/
pineapply/apricotty very complex flavor; very long/lingering
orangey/pineapply/
apricotty/peachy slightly sweet very complex finish; a spectacular
wine that's
developing beautifully. Larry's mystery wine.
__________________
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Inama Vulcia Apres IGT: Veneto Bianco Vino Dolce
(12%; www.DallaTerra.com) 2001: Med.
dark gold color; slight earthy/dusty/wet concrete/piney
very complex perfumed/fragrant
beautiful nose; soft very lush/buttery/ripe loads of ripe
fruit/mango complex quite
sweet flavor; very long/lingering complex ripe/buttery/huge
fruit finish; should live
for many yrs. $28.00/hlf
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The
usual stuff from
the BloodyPulpit:
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- Txakolina: Pronounced Choc-o-leena. This
is about the 7-8 ones of this blended whites
I've had. It's not agonna set the world on fire, but it's
an interesting white. Much
like Albarino w/o the intense floral/fruity character.
__________________
- Slovak Wine: This was my very first Slovak
wine, and a real beaut it turned out to
be. Don't know if this qualifies me for following Slovak
wines from the very start or
not. Know nothing about viticulture/winemaking in Slovakia,
but I've heard that it's
an up&coming region to watch. Google of "Slovak
wines" turns up a small amount of
interesting info. Not sure if this Ch.Bela is typical of
what's coming out of
Slovakia, but I suspect Egon Muller knows a bit about winemaking
and is, at least
partly, responsible for its terrific quality.
__________________
- Bulfon Wines: Emilio Bulfon is a strange
guy who has been specializing in bringing back
indigenous Friulian varieties from the dead; a man w/ a
mission. The wines are
invariably interesting. But I have yet to taste any of the
varieties that have knocked
my socks off. That's not to say the varieties deserve to
die, because I'm all for
diversity in wines. Maybe in some other terroir, they'll
produce one of the world's
great wines. Who knows?? His WebSite (www.Bulfon.It) has
a lot of interesting stuff;
worth reading.
__________________
- Edi Simcic: I've long heard of this producer
as maybe the best winemaker in Slovenia.
They showed up (finally) up in Colorado, so I jumped on
them to try. Really liked the
Takaj (Tocai Friuliano) a lot. The Rebula (Ribiolla Gialla)
was far less interesting.
Both were well-made, but a bit on the pricey side for what
they were.
__________________
- Passito wines: The two dessert/passito
wines were pretty spectacular. Not sure if they
were dried-on-the-vine passitos or dried-on-trays passito.
I've followed the Italian
passito wines from the very start (Darrell Corti turned
me on the Dr.??'s Caluso
Passito from the Erbaluce grape back in the mid-'70's) and
there have been some
spectacular ones over the yrs; one of the world's great
dessert wines. It's always
puzzled me why this genre has not been pursued in Calif,
where the conditions should be
ideal for it. It should make far more interesting dessert
wines in Calif than most all t
the freezer Ice Wines now being made.
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- This was a pretty eccentric/ecletic collection
of white wines. But the wines (except for
the French Rabbit) were all very/very interesting. The diversity
of wines throughout
the world makes for some pretty amazing drinking.
TomHill
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