Home | Wine Reviews | Wine Journals | Updates

by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.


Some Wines of Balance - April 18, 2012

We tasted tonight (4/18/12) Some Wines of Balance: :

  1. Domaine Georges Vernay Viognier LaPied de Samson Vin de Pays des CollinesRhodaniennes 2010: Med.gold color; rather attractive floral/peach/pear/Viog/delicate some classic Condrieu fragrant nose; very tart/lean/thin slight earthy/metallic quite light peach/pear/Viog little flavor; med.short tart/thin/lean/eviscerated/austere/ acidic finish w/ very long/lingering pear/peach/Viog/Condrieu/delicate aftertaste; classic hole-in-the-middle wine; rather attractive nose but not delivers on the palate; even the magic name Vernay can't save it; overpriced at $31.50 (WoP) RPBS: 43
    __________________
  2. Dom. de Vedilhan Viognier Narbonne/Pays d'Oc (13.5%) 2010: Med.dark gold color; slight earthy/mineral rather honeyed/ Roussanne-like/floral slight peach/pear/Viog very attractive/perfumed nose; soft slight earthy/mineral honeyed/ honeysuckle/Roussanne-like slight peach/pear/Viog flavor; med.long earthy/mineral honeyed/Roussanne fairly rich/lush slight peach/pear/Viog finish; not the lean/austere Viog that usually find from Pays d'Oc; quite a lovely wine that seems more like Roussanne than Viognier; great wine for $10.00 (PMW) RPBS: 56
    __________________
  3. Benedicte et Stephane Tissot Chard AC: Arbois (13.5%) Montigny-les-Arsures/Jura 2010: Light gold color; strong appley/ melony/chalky/mineral some spicy/baked apple/apple pie spice quite attractive nose; tart chalky/mineral spicy/apple/ melon baked apple/apple pie spicy ripe flavor; long chalky/mineral/ earthy strong apple/melon/Chard baked apple rich/ tart finish; a very unusual (for Jura) but very attractive Chard; the purity of Chard fruit resembles the TablasCreek Chard; $29.00 (PMW) RPBS: 83
    __________________
  4. WindGap Chard JamesBerryVnyd/PasoRobles (13.8%;  8 brls/194 cs; #992) 2010: Med.gold color; very attractive fragrant/ perfumed melony/Chard/spicy purity of fruit lovely/aromatic nose; tart fairly rich very spicy/appley/melony/Chard quite aromatic lovely flavor; very long/lingering very spicy/appley/ Chard/melony quite beautiful finish; probably the best Paso Chards I've ever had; a purity of fruit uncluttered by any obvious oak; very good price at $25.00 RPBS: 86
    __________________
  5. Donkey&Goat GrenacheRose Isabel'sCuvee GibsonRanch/Mendocino (U; 13.7%; 95 yr old GrenacheGris) 2011: Pale salmon/ copper bit browning/murky color; rather earthy strawberry/ Grenache fairly perfumed/fragrant nose; tart bit tannic/hard/ bitey rather earthy/Grenache/strawberry slightly clunky/coarse flavor; long strawberry/Grenache/earthy bit tannic/ hard finish; bit on the earthy/coarse side and not that bright; quite likeable rose at a good price. $15.50 RPBS: 61
    __________________
  6. BedrockWineCo Ode to Lulu Rose of Mourvedre SonomaVlly (12.3%; Vines planted in 1888-1922; 60% BedrockVnyd/ 31% PaganiRanch/9% AnnadelVnyd Grenache) 2011: Very pale copper color; beautiful very fragrant/perfumed/spicy bit herbal bright cranberry/spicy lovely nose; tart/austere/lean very/very spicy/cranberry slight herbal bright/zippy/ laser-sharp slight earthy/dusty very refreshing flavor; very long very spicy/cranberry/bright slight herbal/rosemary beautiful lingering finish; a simply georgeous rose; this is how they'd make rose in Provence if they could; very good price at $18.00 RPBS: 92
    __________________
  7. WindGap Syrah SonomaCoast (15 brls/345 cs; 12.6%; #1417) 2009: Med.dark color; beautiful strawberry/Syrah high-toned/ floral very Rhonish/smokey/pungent/roasted very spicy/cinammon quite StJoseph-like beautiful/aromatic nose; tart beautiful Rhonish/smokey/roasted/pungent bright/floral/ strawberry/Syrah light toasty/oak flavor w/ modest tannins; very long pungent/roasted/smokey/Rhonish quite floral/violets/strawberry finish w/ bit of a hard/tannic bite; needs several yrs; much like the Graillot Crozes of old; loads of roasted/Rhonish character; fairly priced at $36.00 RPBS: 86
    __________________
  8. Arnot-Roberts Syrah ClaryRanch/SonomaCoast/PetalumaGap (3 brls; 12.2%) 2010: Very dark color; strong very dusty rather peppery/cold-climate/cracked black pepper some Rhonish/roasted some strawberry/Syrah/floral very spicy nose; very tart rather lean/hard quite Rhonish/smokey very cold-climate/cracked black pepper rather tannic flavor; very long hard/tannic very strong cracked black pepper/cold-climate some floral/Syrah/strawberry/violets finish; lots of cold-climate Syrah character and needs 3-6 yrs of age. $40.00 RPBS: 47
    __________________
  9. Arnot-Roberts Syrah AlderSpringsVnyd/MendocinoCnty (5 brls; 12%) 2010: Very dark color; strong ripe blackberry/ boysenberry/Syrah bit herbal/earthy/dusty almost Cab-like bit smokey/pungent rather perfumed/aromatic nose; painfully acid/screechy/tart somewhat herbal/Cab-like some blackberry/Syrah some earthy/dusty light toasty/oak flavor w/ hard/ unyielding tannins; long rather hard/tannic quite acid/screechy some blackcurranty/Cab-like/herbal light blackberry/Syrah light toasty/oak finish; pretty hard/tannic/angular on the palate but some interesting things in the nose; bit pricey at $55.00  RPBS: 17
    __________________
  10. Arnot-Roberts Syrah Griffin'sLairVnyd/PetalumaGap/SonomaCoast (4 brls; 12.5%) 2010: Dark color; beautiful blackberry/ boysenberry/ripe/Syrah/spicy some peppery/cold-climate rather smokey/ pungent/oak fairly complex nose; fairly tart spicy/ blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah/ripe somewhat peppery/licorice/pungent/LasMadres-like light toasty/oak rather tannic/hard flavor; long strong ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah/licorice bit peppery/pungent rather tannic/hard quite interesting
    finish; needs 3-7 yrs of age; the most typical/mainstream of the A-R Syrahs. $55.00 RPBS: 38


And the usual BloodyPulpit:

1. Wines of Balance: This is a term coined as a knee-jerk reaction to the high-alcohol levels in some Calif wines, particularly PinotNoirs. Somm Raj Parr is maybe the primary proponent of this movement, featuring tastings of wines, primarily PinotNoir and Chard, that are more "balanced". Two yrs ago, there was a seminar up in Sebastapol before RhoneRangers that featured Syrahs of Balance. However, IMHO, the term "wines of balance" has become nothing but a code word for wines of lower alcohol. This is not that difficult to achieve. You just harvest grapes from vnyds that exist in very cold areas, or you simply harvest the grapes earlier, at lower sugar levels (assuming you are focused on making "natural" wines, w/o watering back or RO). It's all pretty simple.

But alcohol in only one component of "balance" in a wine. You can find wines that are lower in alcohol, yet still display a hot/fumey/overripe character. You can find wines that are low in alcohol but have such a strident/screechy acidity that "balance" is the last thing they represent. The Ridge Jimsomare '09 is a seamless/well-constructed/ polished Zinfandel that is the epitome of "balance". Crissakes...it's 15.7%...how can you call that a wine of "balance"?? You can find Syrahs that are low in alcohol, yet have such tannic/extraction levels that "balance" is the last thing that comes to mind. True, (maybe) with age they will come into "balance".

Anyway, wines of "balance", like "natural", are damnably tough to define. Unless you arbitrarily define them, as RajParr does, as wines below a xx.xx% level of alcohol. This tableau of wines was assembled to be such a collection of wines of "balance", featuring some wineries who make a great hoo-haw of making wines of "balance". The scores placed on the wines are the RajParr 100-pt scale of "balance", with 100 being a wine in perfect balance and 0 being a wine whose balance is so out of whack it's undrinkable. Unlike Monktown attourneys, I am insufficiently prescient at predicting the RPBS at peak drinkability; so these scores only apply to the wines at this current point in time.
__________________
2. Roses: The D&G was made from very old-vine GrenacheGris. To get any color; they must have left the skins on for the full fermentation. This probably gave the wine the slight tannic bite it showed. Nonetheless, I thought it a quite nice rose.

The Bedrock was mightly impressive; one of the best roses I've had in a long time. It had an incredible cranberry spiciness to it that made it very refreshing to quaff in large quantities; a classic rose.
__________________
3. Syrahs: I have found some of these Syrahs of Balance to be unpleasantly out of balance for current drinking; but certain to come into balance w/ btl age. So I was expecting this group of Syrahs to not be greatly appreciated by my group. However, they were, by and large, well-received. The WindGap was the clear favorite, closely followed by the A-R ClaryRanch. The AlderSprings was a bit of a puzzle to me. It's a very highly regarded vnyd by winemakers. Yet I don't quite share that enthusiasm. Most of the AlderSprings Syrahs I've had I thought pretty good...but I've yet to have one that blows me away. They seem to not have a lot of bright fruit, a certain herbal/earthy/Cab-like quality to the; a bit of forest-floor. It's a vnyd I'd like to walk sometime and get to know better.

TomHill

[Additional Wine Reviews from Tom Hill]

 

Home | Wine Reviews | Wine Journals | Updates

Copyright © 1993 - 2012, Tom Hill- All rights reserved
No original material may be reproduced without written consent
Mail & Comments
- Grape-Nutz
Updated 4.01.12