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by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.


Some More Archive Wines - December 4, 2013

We tried tonight (12/4/13) some More Archive Wines:

  1. Flaccianello della Pieve VdT di Panzano (13%; #2960 of 10,450) DinoManetti/Fontodi/Panzano
    1982:
    Med.color w/ some bricking; rather earthy/dusty/mousey/old red slight cedary no fruit nose; tart/tangy/metallic quite earthy/dusty/old red slight cedary bit musty/mousey/hantavirus flavor w/ light/smooth tannins; med.short tart/tangy/metallic some musty/mousey/old red/dried-out slight cedary no fruit finish w/ light tannins; rather old/tired red wine w/ not much complexity or development; pretty dead & gone. $14.00 (Arg)
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  2. Flaccianello della Pieve VdT di Panzano (12%; #11894 of 26,860) 1985: Med.color w/ some bricking; quite earthy/dusty/loamy/Kansas root cellar slightly less mousey/funky slight cedary no-fruit nose; very tart/tangy/metallic/quite sour very earthy/dusty/metallic slight cedary some mousey/root cellar flavor w/ light tannins; short light mousey/musty/funky slight cedary tart/tangy/metallic finish w/ no tannins; same story/verse 2..a tired/dried-out/ pretty dead old red. $20.00 (Arg)
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  3. BriccoRocche Prapo DOC: Barolo (#8845 of 11,868; 13%) Ceretto/CastiglioneFalletto 1979: Med.light w/ considerable bricking; pleasant rose petal/old Nebb some burnt/charred slight tarry/mushroomy/truffly bit complex somewhat tired nose; slightly tart rather smooth/velvety light rose petal/floral some earthy/dusty slight mushroomy/tarry flavor w/ light/smooth/gentle tannins; med.short dried rose petal/mushroomy/earthy/dusty fairly tart finish w/light/smooth tannins; a rather tired/gentle old Nebb; best thing you can say is that the tannins are ameliorated.$13.40 (CB)
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  4. Tulocay Zin PhillipsVnyd/NapaVlly (15.4%) Napa 1982: Dark color w/ some browning; strong raisened/pruney bit pencilly/toasty/smokey/oak slight spicy/blackerry/cranberry fairly complex nose; rather raisened/pruney/overripe some chocolaty/blackberry/cranberry/Zin/late hrvsty bit cedary/pencilly/old Zin flavor w/ light tannins; med.long overripe/raisened/late harvesty som blackberry/cranberry/Zin bit cedary/pencilly/old Zin finish w/ light/smooth tannins; rather on the overripe/late harvesty side but still has some Zin fruit left to it.
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  5. MontclairWnry Zin KellyCreekVnyd/Sonoma (14.3%) 1981: Med.color w/ slight bricking; rather cedary/pencilly/old Zin slight blackberry/Zin/rather spicy peppery/smokey some complex nose; soft/smooth light/spicy/blackberry/Zin quite attractive some cedary/pencilly/smokey light peppery/spicy complex flavor w/ smooth/velvety tannins that caress the palate; long smooth/velvety some cedary/pencilly/old Zin light blackberry/peppery/Zin/spicy complex finish w/ light/gentle tannins; a lovely/complex old Zin w/ a fair amount of fruit left and very silky/velvety on the palate like snuggling up in a mink pair of jammies. $5.95
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  6. Topolos @ RRV Zin OldHillRanch/SonomaCnty (14%) Forestville 1982: Dark color w/ some browning; rather strong peppery/blackberry/Zin/very spicy bit dusty/OV slight earthy/cedary rather complex nose; soft/smooth some dusty/OV quite peppery/Zin/blackberry/quite spicy/peppery slight tangy some cedary/pencilly/oak flavor w/ light/smooth tannins; very long some blackberry/Zin/very spicy/peppery slight cedary/pencilly/old Zin bit dusty/OV complex finish w/ smooth/graceful tannins;still holding a lot of blackberry/Zin fruit and very spicy/peppery; in very good shape.
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  7. DeLoachVnyds Zin Estate/RRV (Planted in 1905; Hrvstd: Sept.30 & Oct.11; SaH: 23.6 Brix; TA: 0.9%;1902 cs; EB) 1982: Dark color w/ some bricking; big/ripe/blackberry/raspberry/Zin quite spicy light toasty/oak rather dusty/OV bit chocolaty/licorice fairly complex nose; slightly tart rich/lush ripe/big fruit/
    blackberry/Zin/raspberry light charred/toasty/oak/pungent strong dusty/OV off-dry (?) complex flavor w/ light/smooth/integrated tannins; very long/lingering bit tart lush/ripe/blackberry/raspberry/Zin/very spicy/peppery slight licorice/pungent light toasty/smokey/oak complex finish w/ light/smooth tannins; amazingly youthful w/loads of ripe/Zin fruit.
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  8. PaulJabouletAine LesJumelles AC: Cote-Rotie (12.5%) 1976: Med.light color w/ some bricking; beautiful classic NR/roasted/espresso/coffee/smoked meats/bacony/band-aid slight Syrah/floral/violets dusty very complex nose; somewhat tart strong baconey/espresso/roasted/coffee/smoked meats/band-aid (brett?) very gentle/smooth/velvety flavor; very long/lingering band-aid/smoked meats/espresso/roasted/NR light/gentle very complex finish w/ slight drying/bitey tannins far in the
    backtaste; on the downside but still a glorious/beautiful/mature C-R. $11.00 (Heritage)
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  9. PaulJabouletAine LesChapelle AC: Hermitage (13%) 1976: Med.color w/ slight bricking; bit earthy/dusty slight olive tapenade/blackberry/Syrah/licorice/spicy some floral/violets slight roasted/ espresso fairly young complex nose; soft smooth/velvety/lush strong blackberry/Syrah/licorice some floral/violets light roasted/espresso/smokey youthful some complex flavor w/ light/graceful tannins; very long/lingering mostly blackberry/Syrah/peppery/violets/floral slight NR/espresso/roasted fairly complex finish w/ light/smooth tannins; amazingly youthful for a 35 yr old Hermitage; one of the best NR's I've had in a long time, probably near its peak. $23.00
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  10. BonnyDoonVnyd Syrah PasoRobles (12.5%; SaH: 22.3 Brix; EstrellaRiverVnyd; Drk: 9/84-9/94: RG)
    SantaCruz 1983:
    Med.color w/ slight bricking; some strawberry/Syrah slight earthy rather smokey/complex quite perfumed/fragrant lovely nose; soft slight earthy/dusty rather perfumed/strawberry/Syrah/floral/violets slight smokey/roasted quite pretty/attractive light flavor w/ smooth/light tannins; long light/strawberry/Syrah/floral/violets light smokey/roastedlight earthy/dusty finish w/ lighht/gentle tannins; still plenty of pretty strawberry fruit and aging nicely; a quiet/gentle/pretty mature Syrah that's probably on its downside.
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  11. JadeMtn Syrah HudsonVnyd/NapaVlly (14.5%) 1997: Very dark color; intense blackberry/boysenberry/ spicy/licorice some roasted/olive tapenade some smokey/toasty/oak beautiful complex nose; bit tart strong roasted/olive tapenade/cold-climate very strong blackberry/Syrah/black cherry/licorice/boysenberry slight peppery/earthy bit toasty/oak complex flavor w/some tannins; very long/lingering blackberry/ Syrah/boysenberry some cold-climate/peppery/roasted/olive tapenade bit toasty/smokey/oak bit complex finish w/ some smooth/plush tannins; still plenty of youth in this Syrah and should go another 10-15 yrs. $23.00
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  12. SeaRidgeWnry Zin OccidentalVnyd (Private Selection Specially Bttld for Lynne & Stephen Conrad; 13.5%) 1991:Very dark color w/ slight bricking; somewhat volatile/EA intense Zin/blackberry/ boysenberry/very spicy/peppery rather dusty/OV complex nose; very tart/acid very intense blackberry/ boysenberry/Zin/spicy/licorice/pungent structured/rather tannic complex flavor; very long/lingering intense blackberry/boysenberry/Zin/peppery/cold- climate/very spicy slight herbal/licorice finish w/ strong/firm tannins; still quite youthful and very structured on the palate; the acidity should take it out another 10 yrs. Sterbenz mystery wine for Larry's benefit.


And the usual nonsense from the BloodyPulpit:

1. Flaccianello: This was one of the first SuperTuscans. Made of 100% Sangiovese, hence the VdT label. I was expecting more..a lot more...from these two wines. Alas, they were pretty much dead & gone w/ no redeeming features.
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2. SeaRidge: This is the wine of legends in LosAlamos. I tried this under the regular SeaRidge label in the early-mid '90's and was blown away by it. Very intense/extracted fruit and a screamingly high acidity that I knew would make it a long ager. It reminded me a lot of the Ridge Occidental Zin '70 in its youth, another wine of legends.

The SeaRidgeWnry was started in the late '70's by TimSchmidt & DanWickham, two marine bioligists. It's a name that should be better known. They made some of the first great Pinots from the extreme SonomaCoast from BohanRanch fruit. Story here: http://www.princeofpinot.com/article/1398/ Those Pinots were quite remarkable and I remember when I tasted them that these were something different in Calif Pinot and very/very special. The two partners had a falling out in 1988 and Dan took the SeaRidge stocks and moved down onto an old wnry on MorelliLane NE of Occidental, which had a very old pre-Prohibition Zin vnyd. The source of this wine. A stone's throw from Robert vonWeidlich's old Zin vnyd (the source of the old Ridge Occidentals).

Eventually, Dan couldn't make it financially and the label was sold to FredFranzia/BroncoWines, who has trashed its once-great reputation on the shelves of TraderJoe's. Probably when going under, Dan put up this Zin under special "private selection" labels such as this one. No clue who the Conrads are. We bought several cases of this wine for a song w/ a bunch of different names on them. The MorelliLane property then eventually went on to become the Eric Ross Wnry, who also made some wonderful Zins from those same grapes. Eric then moved on over into the SonomaVlly and no longer gets those wonderful old-vine Zins. For awhile, they went to Dutton-Goldfield. These old SeaRidge Zins have become legends in LosAlamos. Because of its very high acidity, I was convinced they would be real agers. Others who were more acid-adverse thought I was nuts and thought the wine was crap. In the end, I was, of course, correct.
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3. Ceretto: Not much left of this wine. I was expecting the ethereal/perfumey nose of an old Barolo. It was not there. A tired/wizened old Nebb that only whispered of its past glories.
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4. Montclair: If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it...does it make a sound? If you Google a wnry and it yields no hits...does/did it exist? This was a small winery in Oakland that started about 1975 by RickDove. Made Zin/Cab/PS. About 1,500 cs/yr. Made in a facility down near the Oakland Coliseum. Rick lived up in Montclair. They were mightly impressive wines. And then they just sort of vanished. Too bad.
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5. Tulocay: This is a wnry located out on CoombsvilleRd on the east side of Napa I fell in love with back in the late '70's when I had an AmadorZin that blew me away. Run by BillCadman, who used to be a tour guide at RobertMondavi and fell in love w/ wine. Made wine at his home (at the top of a very steep driveway) in an adjacent garage in used dairy tanks. Made a PinotBlanc & Chard that I thought were terrific. He also made some stunning PinotNoirs from the HaynesVnyd. From their WebSite (http://www.tulocay.com/), they still appear to be in business...but keeping a pretty low profile. Never see anything of their wines.
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6. Topolos: This was a wnry started in the late '70's by MichaelTopolos. They made, in their day, some pretty amazing Zinfandels. And AlicanteBouschets. Much of it was from RossiRanch as I seem to recall. Their top Zinfandel was called "Ultimo", and it was stunning. Then something happened. The wines became more & more afflicted by high levels of VA/EA. So much so that the last time I stopped at the tasting room, all the reds were pretty much undrinkable. The wines were a joke. I think Michael eventually sold the wnry. There is a Topolos label wine sold by the GoldMedalWineClub, which is
not a good sign. I seem to recall that Michael was farming the RossiRanch from something from MikeOfficer, but couldn't seem to track that down. This '82 was back in Michael's hey-day before the VA/EA became such a problem. In amazingly good shape...and not just for a 30 yr old Zin.
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7. Jaboulet: Both of these '76's were in amazingly good shape. The C-R was a classic NR w/ loads of complexity. The Hermitage was still quite youthful and will probably still go out another 10 yrs. Both were a real treat.
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8. BonnyDoon: I have, of course, followed RandallGrahm from the very start. Back when his passion was to make great PinotNoir up in the SantaCruzMtns at BonnyDoon. In '82, the first of the truly good Calif Syrahs were produced. The Ojai/Qupe/BonnyDoon were from GaryEberle's EstrellaRiver Syrah grapes; and JohnMacCready's SierraVista Syrah up in ElDorado. Although these wines were not profound Syrahs in the sense of NorthernRhone, they at least were good enough to indicate that Syrah had the potential to make great wines in Calif. I think the evidence bears that out thirty yrs later.

I was not expecting a lot from this Syrah. It was far/far better than my expectations. Estrella clone Syrah typically gives, to me, a bright/pretty strawberry character; what I first found in Gary's '76 Syrah. There was still plenty of pretty strawberry fruit in this wine. One more btl left.
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9. JadeMtn: This was one of the very first Syrahs to come off LeeHudson's vnyd in the Carneros. The winemaker was DougDanilek, made at the WhiteRockWnry. The JadeMtn label was eventually sold and now makes just ordinary stuff. JimParas planted his Viognier/Syrah/Nebbiolo vnyd up on MtVeeder and Doug is now the winemaker of the ParasVnyd wines..

TomHill

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