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by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.

Nebbiolos - December 17, 2014

We tried last night (12/17/14) some Nebbiolos:

  1. CascinaBallarin Rosso Cino DOC: Langhe (13%; www.CascinaBallarin.It; Barbera/Nebbiolo/Dolcetto) Viberti Luigi e Figli/LaMorra 2010: Med.color; rather spicy/Italian sausage/classic Barbera some earthy/dusty slight floral/lilacs attractive/rustic nose; rather tart/tangy classic Barbera/Italian sausage/spicy metallic rather earthy/dusty/rustic flavor w/ light tannins; med.long spicy/Italian sausage/classic Barbera rather earthy/dusty/ rustic finish w/ light/gentle tannins; fairly classic Piemonte Barbera and quite drinkable. $18.00 (BWM)
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  2. Ar.Pe.Pe. DOC: Rosso di Valtellina (13%; 100% Nebbiolo; 1200 cs) Sondrio 2010: Med.light color; very classic Nebb/floral/lilacs slight pungent/tarry rather earthy/dusty/stony quite attrictive Nebb nose; quite tart/earthy/dusty light floral/Nebb biit pungent flavor w/ light/smooth tannins; med. light/floral/lilacs/ violets/Nebb somewhat earthy/dusty/pungent/road tar finish; lacks the soaring aromatics of most Piemonte Nebbs but quite a lovely/alternative expression of Nebbiolo as done in the Valtelline. $41.00 (BWM)
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  3. Properieta Sperino Uvaggio DOC: Coste della Sesia Rosso (65% Nebbiolo/20% Vespolina/15% Croatina; 13%; L.09.12; EB) Vigneti de Marchi/Lessona 2010: Med.light color; lovely/fragrant Nebb/floral/lilacs/violets quite perfumed slight tarry/pungent some complex nose; tart/tangy/metallic light floral/violets/lilacs/Nebb bit pungent/tarry rather perfumed flavor w/ light/angular/sharp tannins; very long tangy/metallic some floral/lilacs/Nebb slight pungent/tar finish w/ light/sharp/bitey tannins; a bit on the lean/austere side on the palate butrather attractive Nebb aromatics. $36.00 (AV)
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  4. LePiane Maggiorina VinoRosso (12.5%; www.VinityWineCompany.com; 40% Nebbiolo/40%Croatina + 10 other native varieties; CollineNovaresi) Boca 2011: Med.color; slight metallic/steely bit earthy/ dusty light floral/lilacs/Nebb more lush/fruity/blackberry quite fragrant less high-toned nose; softer round/ fruity/lush light floral/lilacs/Nebb slight earthy/dusty flavor w/ light/soft tannins; long soft/lush/round some blackberry/plummy slight floral/lilacs/Nebb light earthy/dusty finish w/ modest/soft tannins; speaks quietly of Nebb but the Croatina gives it a bit of a Calif lushness; quite a lovely wine at a great price. $22.00 (WoP)
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  5. Mazzoni Vespolina il Ricetto DOC: CollineNovaresi (13.5%; L131) TizianoMazzoni/Cavaglio d'Agogna 2011: Med.dark color; strong grapey/fruity bit blackberry/licorice/plummy/herbal bit Mourv-like rather aromatic/Calif-style nose; soft/lush/rich plummy/Mourv-like/blackberry/black cherry/licorice quite attractive flavor w/ light/soft tannins; very long lush/ripe bit soft strong black cherry/blackberry/plummy/Mourv-like slight earthy/dusty slight herbal/rosemary/licorice finish w/ light/soft/ripe tannins; resembles some a Calif Mourv or WashState Syrah; quite a lovely red at a great price. $22.00 (CB)
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  6. Ioppa Vespolina DOC: CollineNovaresi (14%; www.GiulianaImports.com; L.07.12.07) Gianpiero e Giorgio Romagnano/Sesia 2007: Very dark color; slight metallic/pungent/ozone some plummy/ blackberry/Zin-like slight earthy/rustic bit complex nose; rather tangy/metallic/pungent/ozone rather plummy/blackberry/Zin-like bit peppery flavor w/some hard/rough/astringent tannins; med.long tangy/tart/metallic plummy/blackberry/black cherry cola slight earthy/peppery/rough bit complex finish w/ rather hard/rough tannins; not drying out but pretty astringent/hard tannins on the palate; interesting red but not a lot of pleasure. $23.00 (AV)
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  7. Ca'De'Santi DOC: CollineNovaresi Vespolina (13%) 2008: Med.color w/ some bricking; rather smokey/ pungent/bit ozone slight earthy some blackberry/plummy/boysenberry/ripe slight floral/lilacs/hair oil quite attractive fragrant nose; rather tart/tangy some smokey/pungent/arc welding strong plummy/ boysenberry/Syrah-like bit floral/hair oil/slight muscatty flavor w/ light/tangy tannins; long plummy/ boysenberry/blackberry some floral/hair oil/perfumed finish w/ light/spikey tannins; reminds a bit of Paso Syrah but w/ some tangy acids; quite an attractive wine at a good price. $24.00 (WE)
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  8. Davide Carlone Croatina DOC: ColliNovaresi (13%; www.RinascimentoWineCo.com) Grignasco 2011: Dark color; slight volatile very fragrant/perfumed almost black muscat/floral/spicy/minty/menthol lovely aromatic nose; tart/tangy quite perfumed/floral/spicy/cherry/black muscat-like slight dusty flavor w/ light/smooth tannins; long/lingering very perfumed floral/muscatty/cherry cola slightly tart quite intense finish w/ light/gentle tannins; much like a dry black muscat or MoscateRosso; a beautiful wine at a terrific price. $20.00 (CB)
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  9. Ca'De'Santi DOC: Fara (Nebbiolo/Bonarda/Vespolina; 3 yrs in oak; 13%) 2006: Med.light color w/ some bricking; tired/dried out some oldZin/wet wool/earthy slight cherry/floral/rose petal nose; tart bit thin/dried out/tired rather oldZin/wet wool/earthy/loamy bit metallic/tangy flavor w/ light/astringent/bitey tannins; med. short rather tired/oldZin/earthy/wet wool some woody/cedary finish w/ tired/dried out tannins; tired and pretty shot much like an old/tired Zin. $29.00 (WE)
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  10. Davide Carlone DOC: Boca (13.5%; L12-260) 2009: Dark color; strong blackberry/plummy/Mourv-like rather lush slight floral/lilacs quite attractive/fragrant nose; bit tart rather floral/lilacs/Nebb some plummy/Mourv-like/black cherry cola/DrPepper slight bretty fairly rich/lush flavor w/ light/bit bitey tannins; very long/lingering floral/lilacs/violets/Nebb some plummy/Mourv-like slightly tart fairly rich/lush/ripe finish w/ light/hard tannins; fairly drinkable now but should go out another 4-6 yrs; quite a delicious red. $45.00 (CB)
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  11. Ioppa DOC: Ghemme (14%; L.07.12.07; 85% Nebbiolo/15% Vespolina) 2007: Med.dark color; rather floral/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal slight tarry/pungent slight plummy quite aromatic beautiful nose; somewhat hard/tart some floral/lilacs/violets bit road tar/pungent rather high-toned/aromatic flavor w/ light/hard/bitey tannins; very long/lingering bit tart aromatic/floral/violets/lilacs slight tarry/pungent bit earthy/dusty finish w/ light bitey/hard tannins; seems more high-toned & floral/Nebb than the SantaFe; lovely/lovely Nebb at a great price. $33.00 (AV)
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  12. Ioppa SantaFeVnyd DOCG: Ghemme (14.5%; L.S.F.07.12.07; 80% Nebbiolo/20% Vespolina) 2007: Dark color; some earthy/dusty bit more pungent/licorice/tarry light floral/lilacs/violets/perfumed bit plummy/Mourv-like very strong nose; softer/richer somewhat tarry/pungent bit boysenberry/ plummy/ ripe/Mourv-like slight earthy/dusty flavor w/ light/firm/structured tannins; very long/lingering some pungent/road tar some plummy/boysenberry/ripe light floral/lilacs/violets finish w/ light/firm/hard tannins; seems less Nebb/aromatic, more dusty/earthy (SantaFe terroir?), less tight and more lush/ripe; a beautiful rendition of Nebb. $50.00 (AV)
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  13. Rovellotti DOC: GhemmeRiserva Costa del Salmino (14%; L.09-10; Nebbiolo+10% Vespolina) 2005: Dark color w/some bricking; rather tarry/pungent/roasted/smokey quite fragrant/floral/lilacs/violets/spicy pretty classic Nebb nose; fairly tart bit toasty/oak lush/ripe quite perfumed/floral/lilacs/violets bit tarry/road tar/pungent fairly complex flavor w/ some smooth/graceful/gentle tannins; very long/lingering perfumed/floral/lilacs/violets some road tar/pungent slight dusty/earthy finish w/ smooth/gentle tannins; a very classic Nebb w/ lovely aromatics but w/o the bitey/hard tannins of B/B Nebbs; a beautiful expression of Nebb; this is exactly how they should be making Nebb in Calif. $60.00 (BWM)
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  14. Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Giaun Martinenga DOCG: Barbaresco (14%) 1999: Med.color w/ some bricking; quite aromatic/perfumed lilacs/floral/violets/classic Nebb light road tar/smokey/pungent quite complex nose; slightly tart classiv floral/rose petal/lilacs/violets light road tar/pungent complex flavor w/ light/velvety/smooth tannins; very long/lingering classic Nebb/rose petal/lilacs/violets slight tarry/pungent/smokey quite complex finish w/ smooth/plush/velvety tannins; beautiful/soaring Nebb aromatics and fully mature on the
    palate. $100.00


And the Usual Stuff from TheBloodyPulpit:

1. Maggiorina: This is a vine trellis system that had pretty much fallen out of favor over the yrs. LePiane is reviving its usage (for some reason). A bit of info on it in Alphonse's blog:
http://acevola.blogspot.com/2010/04/vinitaly-day-5-with-my-mouth-and.html
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2. Marchesi de Gresy: This was a btl that DougWilson picked up on his recent trip to the Piemonte. A stunning/classic example of a fully mature Barbaresco.
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3. Carlone: If this is an example of what Croatina is like, they should be planting it all over Calif. I was
mightly impressed by the muscat-like aromatics the wine showed, some even like a Brachetto.
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4. Vespolina/Croatina: Two varieties that are most often found in the AltoPiemonte and usually blended w/Nebbiolo. Vespolina is a cross from Nebbiolo X unknown variety. Both are indigeneous to the Colline Novaresi. I was particularly impressed by the two Ioppa Ghemmes. Both should be being planted in Calif. I dream of the NapaVlly being carpeted in Croatina/Vespolina.
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5. Bonarda: Kinda confusing usage for this name. Bonarda is grown in Argentina under that name. The same variety is also grown in Calif under the name Charbono. In the OltroPo Pavese, Bonarda (del OltropoPavese) is the local name for Croatina. Bonarda Novarese is actually UvaRara, another grape variety. To add to the confusion, there is the Bonarda Piemontese grown in the Piemonte near Turin. True Bonarda is also known as DouceNoir. Clear as mud.
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6. Calif Nebb: Has a pretty dreadful reputation. Those who are Piemonte B/B fans totally dismiss Calif Nebb because they don't smell/taste like B/B. Those who are Calif red wine fans often reject them because the hard/tannins cause them not to taste like Calif/NapaVlly Cab. Whatcha you gonna do??
Well...you keep on plugging along and someday a few of those folks will get it. Because they get so many $$'s for B/B, a lot of Calif vintners think they want to make Piemonte Nebb. As DarrellCorti admonished them at NEB#3, make Calif Nebb and be done w/ it...don't try to replicate B/B. I've long felt B/B was not the place to look to for Calif Nebb. I've long espoused the Valtelline. Though I
doubt they can achieve that earthy minerality, while still retaining the Nebb perfume, that they get in the Valtelline. I'm more & more convinced that the AltoPiemonte is where to look for Nebb in Calif. I would dearly love to do this tasting again for some of the Calif Nebb producers. I think it would open their eyes. KenMusso/DueVigna has Vespolina planted up in ElDorado. It'll be interesting to see how it turns out.

TomHill

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