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by Tom Hill

A self-admitted wine geek, Tom lives in Northern New Mexico and works as a computational physicist at Los Alamos National Laboratory doing numerical neutron transport & large scale code development. He has been tasting wines since 1971, participates locally with a couple of large tasting groups in his area, and is practically a fixture at most California wine festivals, such as the Hospice du Rhône, Rhône Rangers, and ZAP. Other interests: Tom is heavily into competitive sport fencing (foil & epee), biking, cooking, basketball, skiing, backpacking, mountain climbing.

Some More New Wines - April 30, 2014

We tasted the other night (4/30/14) Some More New Wines:

  1. Eichorn Manincor PinotBianco DOC: AltoAdige Terlano (13.5%; www.Manincor.com) Kaltern/Caldaro 2012: Light yellow color; rather earthy/stony/mineral slight cabbagey light apple/pear/steely terroir-driven nose; rather tart mineral/stony/earthy light appley/PB/apple pie/pear/spicy flavor; med.long tangy/metallic
    rather stony/mineral/earthy light appley/PB/spicy/pear finish; some like an Alsace PB but more terroir-
    driven; pretty typical AA white; bit on the pricey side. $34.25 (Enoteca)
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  2. Barone di Valforte Passerina IGT: ColliAprutini (12%; www.WWCellars.com) Abruzzo 2009: Med.drak gold color; fragrant ripe/overripe/pineapple/tropical fruit/grapey pleasant nose; soft/fat quite grapey/ overripe/pineapple/tropical fruit almost passito-like dry to off-dry slight tangly/orangey bit rustic/coarse flavor; med. soft/fat/porky grapey/overripe/tropical fruit/pineapple bit tangy/metallic/orangey finish; clean for an Abruzzo white but rather on the overripe/coarse side. $18.00 (DaV)
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  3. Arnot-Roberts Syrah NorthCoast (13%; BakerLaneVnyd/SonomaCoast+ClaryRanch, GriffinsLairVnyd, LaCruzVnyd/PetalumaGap+AlderSpringsVnyd/Mendocino; whole-cluster frmtd; U/U) 2012: Dark color; somewhat funky/earthy/dusty strong peppery/whole-cluster light ppeppery/blackberry/Syrah bit roasted/Rhonish complex nose; rather tart/tangy strong earthy/whole-cluster/peppery/Rhonish bit unclean very light Syrah/blackberry/blueberry complex flavor w/ some modest/bitey tannins; long quite tart/tannic/tangy/bitey strong whole-cluster/Rhonish/peppery/earthy/dusty finish; needs some age to become drinkable; a bit like a funky StJoseph or Texier Rhone. $35.00
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  4. Arnot-Roberts Syrah ClaryRanch/PetalumaGap/SonomaCoast (8 brls; 11 1/2%) 2012: Dark color; quite dusty/earthy some whole-cluster/Rhonish/peppery light cranberry/raspberry/blackberry/Syrah/spicy interesting nose; very tart/ acid/screechy/lean/strident some cranberry/blackberry/Syrah rather dusty/earthy bit whole-cluster/peppery flavor w/ some hard/bitey/angular tannins; long metallic/ screechy/tangy/acid some whole-cluster/Rhonish/roasted light cranberry/Syrah quite dusty/earthy finish w/ some hard/astringent tannins; a rather interesting bit Rhonish somewhat lean/eviscerated rendition of Syrah; probably will show better w/ some age. $45.00
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  5. ClaryRanch Syrah PetalumaGap/SonomaCoast (13.5%; www.ClaryRanch.com) 2008: Med.dark color; rather rich/lush strong blackberry/ripe/Syrah/boysenberry some toasty/charred/oak some complex nose; ripe/soft strong blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah/jammy strong toasty/charred/oak/smokey flavor w/ light/smooth tannins; very long bit soft/lush/ripe strong blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry/jammy strong toasty/charred/oak finish w/ light/ripe tannins; rather on the very ripe side and no cold-climate character I can get. $31.00 (Enoteca)
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  6. Arnot-Roberts Syrah Griffin'sLair/PetalumaGap/SonomaCoast (4 brls; 13 1/2%) 2012: Dark color; light w-c/dusty/Rhonish bit funky/smokey some peppery/Syrah/blackberry/spicy complex nose; fairly tart/tangy some w-c/Rhonish/dusty/smokey light peppery/Syrah/blackberry/cranberry flavor w/ some hard/bitey tannins; long tangy/tart/grapefruity/bit metallic some w-c/Rhonish light blackberry/cranberry/ Syrah/spicy/peppery slight bretty/funky finish w/ ample hard/angular tannins; shows more cold-climate/peppery character than the Clary; badly needs some age; quite an interesting rendition of Syrah but somewhat hurtey on the palate. $55.00
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  7. Pax Syrah Griffin'sLairVnyd/SonomaCoast/SonomaCnty (13.5%; U/U; 9 brls/202 cs) 2010: Med.dark color; strong ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah bit pungent/ozone/smokey light toasty/oak slight w-c/Rhonish rather complex nose; slightly tart fairly rich/blackberry/Syrah bit peppery/cold-climate some Rhonish/w-c/smokey light toasty/oak flavor w/ ample soft/round tannins; very long slight smokey/w-c/Rhonish strong blackberry/blueberry/Syrah light toasty/oak complex finish w/ some soft/smooth tannins; a really lovely somewhat Rhonish Syrah. $64.00
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  8. Pax Syrah TheHermit NorthCoast (14.7%; Castelli-Knight/Griffin'sLair/AlderSprings vnyds; 80% whole-cluster; U/U; 10 brls/238 cs) 2010: Very dark color; some peppery/w-c/Rhonish strong spicy/blackberry/Syrah light smokey/oak bit peppery/cold-climate fairly complex nose; strong blackberry/Syrah/ripe/very spicy some w-c/peppery/Rhonish/dusty complex flavor w/ some smooth/ripe tannins; very long quite spicy/blackberry/Syrah/dusty/ripe light w-c/Rhonish/peppery finish w/ lush/ripe tannins; needs 2-8 yrs; quite a good Syrah at a very fair price. $38.00
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  9. Pax Syrah AlderSpringsVnyd/MendoCnty (13.6%; CatoRidge & SpiritRock blocks; U/U; 4 brls/111 cs) 2010: Dark color; rather exotic piney/pine forest/eucalyptus/herbal some blackberry/Syrah/spicy slight Rhonish/smokey bit bretty rather complex/interesting nose; fairly tart rather herbal/piney/forest floor some blackberry/Syrah/very spicy/exotic bit earthy/dusty/Rhonish quite interesting flavor w/ a bit of a tannic bite; very long piney/forest floor/eucalyptus/exotic some blackberry/Syrah/spicy slight w-c/peppery/ Rhonish/smokey finish w/ light/angular tannins; needs 3-6 yrs; a quite unusual rendition of Calif Syrah but very interesting; bit pricey at $60.00
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  10. Paix Sur Terre "songs of its own" PasoRobles (58% Grenache/30% Mourv/12% Syrah; www.PaixSurTerreWines.com; 15.0%) 2012: Med.color; quite fragrant very pretty/Grenache/ strawberry/framboise rather spicy attractive nose; slight alcoholic very bright/pretty/strawberry/raspberry/ Grenache quite spicy slight earthy flavor w/light/smooth tannins; med.long bit alcoholic slight alcoholic/hot bright/pretty/strawberry/raspberry/Grenache rather spicy finish w/ light/angular tannins; a very pretty moderate-weight Grenache that will probably benefit from a yr of age. $nc (RPvM&DP)/$45.00
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  11. Paix Sur Terre "The other one" PasoRobles (100% Mourv; 15.3%) 2012: Med.dark color; strong plummy/Mourv/ripe/licorice/boysenberry huge fruit quite fragrant/perfumed lovely nose; soft very strong plummy/Mourv/ripe/licorice/big fruit slight alcoholic light toasty/oak slight earthy flavor w/ light/ripe/smooth tannins; long ripe/Mourv/plummy/licorice bit pungent/earthy balanced finish w/ light/smooth tannins; loads of Mourv fruit yet not a goopy fruit bomb and shows balance & structure both. $nc (RPvM&DP)/$45.00
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  12. Paix Surre Terre "Either side of The Hill" PasoRobles (70% Syrah/30% Mourv; 15.1%) 2012: Dark color; strong ripe/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah/black cherry/spicy bit chocolaty/licorice light toasty/oak perfumed/aromatic nose; soft ripe/blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry/spicy/plummy slight pungent/licorice/root beer/RCCola interesting flavor w/ light/soft/smooth tannins; very long ripe/blackberry/Syrah/ spicy/boysenberry slight RCCola/spicy/peppery light toasty/oak finish w/ light/gentle tannins; no signs of alcoholic heat on this one; lots of ripe fruit but not over-the-top and shows good balance; my favorite of the PST wines; sorta midway between the Tablas and Saxum in style. $nc (RPvM&DP)/$45.00
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  13. Drew Syrah BrokenLegVnyd/AndersonVlly/MendoCnty (115 cs; 14.5%) Elk 2006: Very dark/near black color; strong blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah/licorice quite spicy bit peppery/cold-climate some toasty/charred/smokey/oak bit alcoholic slight earthy/loamy some complex nose; bit dried out some blackberry/Syrah/blueberry bit hot/alcoholic some toasty/oak/smokey flavor w/ light/astringent tannins; long some blackberry/blueberry/Syrah slight cold-climate/peppery bit alcoholic somewhat complex finish w/ light/drying tannins; an interesting/mature Syrah w/ some cold-climate character but starting to dry out. Costigan mystery.


The usual bloviations from TheBloodyPulpit:

1. Passerina: This is a variety of unknown origins grown along the Adriatic coast, but mostly in the Marche. Also known as "Pagadebito Gentile". Because of its very large yields, that name comes from "debt payer" because it brought in the $$'s that allowed the farmer to pay off his land. This was my first Passerina. Because of its overripe character, I was not impressed. Will try to find one from the Marche.
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2. Paix Sur Terre: A WestSide PasoRobles wnry started in 2010 by Ryan & Nicole Pease. I was turned on to this wnry over a yr ago by some Livermore friends who'd stumbled upon it in one of their Paso forays and gifted us w/ a btl of the Syrah, which duly impressed me. When they visited there last month, they suggested to Ryan that he send our group the new releases to try. These are those wines.

The Grenache was probably the group's least favorite. A pretty wine, but seemed a bit simple right now. But the Mourv & Syrah were both first-rate. They are not big/bombastic Paso wines in the style of Saxum, but more closer to the TablasCreek expressions, but w/ more alcohol than the TCV carry. Though above 15%, the alcohols on those two were not at all evident. Good wines that we will continue to try. PST also makes the only (to my knowledge) UgniBlanc in Calif, though I've not tried it. I suspect they were able to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear with it.
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3. Drew: This Syrah from Jason/Molly Drew was one of their first made from AndersonVlly grapes. I recall it being more along the style of the Syrahs he made down in SantaBarbara and before he segued into a more restrained/elegant style of Syrah he now makes.
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4. Arnot-Roberts: This is a pretty strange bunch of Calif Syrahs. None were a real pleasure to drink and kind of hurt on the palate. The was obvious whole-cluster ferments in making them and they showed a quite interesting Rhonish character. Extreme Syrah winemaking that won't play well in Monktown.
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5. Pax: The Pax wines are now, once-again, being made by PaxMahle. They seem more restrained and less bombastic than the first Syrahs he once made under the Pax label w/ he was with Joe Donelan. The prices, as they were before, seem a bit on the steep side; but it's great to have Pax back w/ us. It's not clear where the Syrahs are going to go vis a vis Pax/WindGap.
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6. Alder Springs: This is StuBewley's vnyd up in the Northern reaches of MendoCnty. The wines that come from this vnyd always have distinct herbal/piney notes to me...quite unusual & exotic. Interesting vnyd.

TomHill

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