Vol. 4 No.4
Central Coast
Visits in This Issue:
11/29/96 11/30/96 12/1/96 (Journal notes on a Fall trip to the Central Coast. Regarding tasting
notes, each wine was scored using the requisite sight, smell, and taste
impressions. Scores reflect the tasters opinions (EA first, MP second),
and use an alpha-oriented rating system. "n/n" indicates no notes taken
by the taster, and "n/t" indicates the wine was not tasted by that taster.
Friday, November 29, 1996 Time to make our usual post-Thanksgiving visit to the Santa Ynez and
Santa Maria Valleys, and the Central Coast areas of Paso Robles and Edna
Valley. Just since last year, there have been a number of new wineries
open or change hands in both areas, and we were looking forward to a comprehensive
visit. This being Thanksgiving weekend, we are fully expecting moderate-to-heavy
crowds at each stop. Left Irvine about 8:00. Arrived at Mosby about 10:35 to a couple
departing via motorcycle. In the otherwise empty tasting room, our host
was proprietress Jeri Mosby, who was pouring 4 @ $2.50 incl glass. On
many occasions we had driven by Mosby while on the way to Sanford, but
had never stopped before. Originally called Vega Vineyards (known for
some decent Gewurtztraminer), then Mosby Winery at Vega Vineyards, they
seem to have finally settled on just plain Mosby. They've apparently also
decided to concentrate primarily on Italian varieties as well, though
still retaining the Traminer grape. Mostly good to very good wines, but
the wines seemed a bit pricey. Chatted with Jeri a bit about the local
lore, etc., which also happened to fill in a few blanks on the absence
of the former Ballard Cyn Winery which seemed to have disappeared from
the local scene a few years back. Out at 11:00. Tasted at Mosby: Vintage Wine EA MP 1994 Traminer - Aromatico B+ B+ 1993 Gewurtztraminer B B- 1995 Rosso di Nebbiolo B- B 1994 Sangiovese B+ B+ Arrived 11:10 at Sanford. We'd been following 2 cars (carrying
a total of about 10 people) up the gravel road to the rustic winery tasting
room, and decided that it might be best for us to, dare I say, beat them
to the table. A little race-walking got us to the tasting room first (you
don't want to arrive behind a tarrying crowd when you're us). Inside,
the always friendly staff was manning the usual 2 weekend tables, one
for white, one for red. Some construction was going on out back behind
the current room. Stone fireplace and good-sized room. We didn't ask,
but maybe it's a new tasting room? Tasted 5 wines N/C. Tasted at Sanford: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Sauvignon Blanc A- B+ 1995 Chardonnay - Estate B B 1995 Chardonnay B+ A- 1994 Chardonnay - Barrel Select B+ B+ 1994 Pinot Noir B+ B+ Arrived Maison Deutz at 12:20. Semi-busy room. We each ordered
2 different sparklers and a glass of their new Pinot, with a Carpe Diem
label. The standard operational procedure here, as with most California
sparkling wine (read Methode Champenoise) houses, is that there really
isn't any "tasting" that goes on; you purchase sparkling wine(s) by the
glass. Maison Deutz usually serves a little plate of crackers and a small
amount of goat cheese spread on the side, along with some coarse black
mustard or condiment. After a couple of glasses of bubbly, I'm tellin'
you, you don't want to leave the place! But, leave we must. However, before
departing I had to have some of that black mustard. Unfortunately, they
had run out of the stuff. I was astounded! Ironically, one of the things
I definitely wanted to pick up on the trip was some of that black mustard
(subsequently made innumerable side trips during the weekend trying to
find some more, but to no avail). Out at 1:20. Tasted at Maison Deutz: Vintage Wine EA MP NV Blanc de Noir B A- 1992 Brut Reserve A A 1994 Pinot Noir (Carpe Diem) A- A- Arriving in Paso Robles, we headed for first stop. Pulled into Arciero
at 2:25. Sort of a commercial, bus stop-looking place on the outside.
Hmmm, commercial, bus stop-looking place on the inside too! Plus, they've
got a racing car on display! A touch touristy, but hopefully the wines
will make up for any commercial indiscretions. Tasting arrangement is
selection of 4 wines N/C from a list. The place was hopping, the wines
were vaguely varietally familiar, and the staff was friendly. Out at 2:50. Tasted at Arciero: Vintage Wine EA MP 1992 Nebbiolo B- C+ 1993 Sangiovese B n/t 1995 Pinot Noir B C+ 1993 Merlot B C+ Cabernet Sauvignon n/t B- Down the road to Meridian. Arrived at 2:55 to the ever-present
busy room. Pouring the full list of 12...or more...we took 8 at N/C. Friendly
staff adept at keeping everything moving, and keeping all customers happy.
With dependable and slightly above average wines, Meridian certainly covers
all the bases at taking care of their patrons. Out at 3:30. Tasted at Meridian: Vintage Wine EA MP 1994 Sauvignon Blanc B B 1994 Chardonnay - Reserve B+ B- 1995 Pinot Noir B B 1993 Merlot B+ B 1994 Pinot Noir - Reserve B+ B 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon B C+ 1993 Zinfandel B+ B- 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc B B- Arrived 3:35 at Eberle, but room was way too crowded. Drove a little
further down the road to old Baron Winery site, which was supposed to
be the new Grey Wolf site. Nobody home, and the Baron logos were still
on the door. So, off to Sylvester. Arrived 3:55 to the tasting
room, deli, gift shop of this new winery. Willing to pour the entire list
of 12 wines...we took 6. Big surprise -- these wines are much better
than expected! Some generic varieties (i.e., Burgundy) which would otherwise
be dismissed, turned out to be quite flavorful -- and at $6 a magnum,
exceptionally reasonable). Using the "team" approach to handle the tasters,
there were 2 or more staff tending to our pours. Some of the aforementioned
could use a bit of training, however. For instance, in response to my
question about the blend of grapes in the Burgundy, one of the pourers
replied, "I don't know, I just work here." It had obviously been a tough
and/or busy day. Nevertheless, a recommended new stop. Out at 4:30. Tasted at Sylvester: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Chardonnay B- B 1994 Chardonnay B B+ NV Red Burgundy - (magnum only) B+ B 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon - Kiara reserve B+ B+ 1995 Zinfandel B+ B- NV Cabernet Sauvignon B n/t Back to Eberle. Arrived 4:35 to a less busier room than before.
We tried 7 wines from the list, skipping the whites. As we were finishing
our last taste, one staffer announced "last call" for the final winery
tour of the day. Normally, this may not have held much interest, but when
he mentioned that the new Eberle cave was part of the tour, who could
resist. Recently, Eberle winery dug an aging cave/banquet room under their
parking lot. It seems this cave-digging thing has become the big rage
throughout California lately - sometimes with mixed results. The outcome
in Eberle's case is quite an attractive facility. Below ground, we had
an 2 barrel tastes ('95 Cab - one from a newer barrel; one from an older
barrel) and an excellent tour. Back up in the tasting room after the tour,
we were poured a final taste, the '95 Cote du Robles. Finally out at 5:50.
As we were leaving, the staff was kind enough to ask where we were dining
and if we would like them to make a reservation for us. Gladly! Always
friendly place. Tasted at Eberle: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Chardonnay B B NV White "Boargundy" B B 1994 Cote du Robles A- B+ 1995 Grenache A- B 1995 Syrah A- B 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon A- A 1994 Zinfandel A- B+ 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon (older barrel) A- B+ 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon (newer barrel) B+ B Cote du Robles B+ B+ Dinner at McPhee's, just 15 minutes away in Templeton. Highly recommended.
In keeping with the Eberle theme, we had a bottle of '93 Cabernet along
with the meal. Good totals for the day: 6 wineries, 40 wines. Arrived at first stop of the day at 10:25 at Silver Canyon. Appears
to be a home with a tasting room on the side. We drove up the long driveway
and around back. There were people (residents?) milling about, but no
one beckoned us in. Something didn't feel right. We're not usually shy,
but the place looked uninviting, or even closed. We passed on checking
it out further, and drove next door to Justin. Arrived to a quiet
room. Pouring 6 tastes N/C, since MP still a "Justin Wine Society" member.
Some tasty wines. Departed, and checked out Justin's new digs further
down the road (they're almost at the end of the road as it is...any further,
and we'd have been in San Simeon.) Left for other stops at 11:05. Tasted at Justin: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Chardonnay B+ B 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon B B+ 1994 Merlot B+ B+ 1994 Cabernet Franc B+ A- 1995 Orange Muscat B B 1995 Port - Cabernet A- B Arrived 11:30 at Adelaida. Just 4-6 people in room. Pouring 4
wines $2 incl glass. Winemaker John Munch not in sight, so it looks like
a backroom tasting was probably not forthcoming. Chatted a bit with staff,
then out at 11:55 to take a short tailgate lunch. Tasted at Adelaida: Vintage Wine EA MP NV Cabernet Sauvignon B B 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon B A- 1993 Zinfandel B B 1992 Zinfandel - Late Harvest B B- Arrived at Norman at 12:25 to quiet room. Where were the crowds
we were expecting? Taking advantage of the opportunity, we were able to
have a nice chat with Art and Lei Norman. Very relaxing time, and we hated
to leave. We were secretly hoping Art would offer a trip downstairs to
the winery for another barrel tasting. But, he was probably feeling too
relaxed as well. Pouring 4 wines N/C. Out at 1:00. Tasted at Norman: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Chardonnay B n/t 1994 Pinot Noir B B- 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon B+ A- 1994 Cabernet Franc A- B Arrived Peachy Canyon at 1:15 to semi-busy room. Hilltop tasting
room provides nice vista from the patio. Peachy specializes in Zins, but
they've started to branch out a bit and have developed a new Meritage.
They were pouring 7 N/C. Out at 1:55. Tasted at Peachy Canyon: Vintage Wine EA MP NV Zinfandel - Incredible Red B+ B 1994 Zinfandel - Eastside B+ B 1994 Zinfandel - Westside A- A- 1994 Zinfandel - Dusi Ranch A- B+ 1994 Merlot B B 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon B+ B 1993 Red Meritage B A- Arrived at Silver Horse at 2:30 to a crowd of two. Never been
here before. A relatively new tasting room addition to the winery; pouring
3 wines N/C (Char, White Zin, and Cab). Disappointing selection. Out at
2:45 after the briefest visit ever. Tasted at Silver Horse: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Chardonnay n/t B 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon B B- Arrived Grey Wolf at 3:15. Small house just off Hwy 46, using
the living room as the tasting room. Opened quite recently, we found this
to be a very friendly place, with very modest prices. Pouring 4 N/C, and
the wines were surprisingly nice. Out at 3:35. Tasted at Grey Wolf: Vintage Wine EA MP 1993 Chardonnay B B 1994 Zinfandel B+ B+ 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon B B NV Muscat Canelli B+ B+ Arrived Pesenti at 3:40. Wow, I'm sure the winery itself was somewhere
about, but this place looks like a repair garage for farm equipment! Very
small tasting room, with a unique tasting arrangement - the wines are
poured into shot glasses for tasting. Try to nose that! I asked
why they used shot glasses, and was told " That's what we do,...that's
the way we've always done it." I have to admit, at a time when most wineries
are trying to dress-up, this place seems to be content to stay quite casual.
Back to the roots! Poured 3 N/C. Out at 3:55. Tasted at Pesenti: Vintage Wine EA MP 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon B B- 1993 Zinfandel - Late Harvest Dry B B- 1994 Zinfandel B B+ After stopping briefly to look for (what else?) mustard at Creston's
roadside tasting room (no luck), arrived at Wild Horse at 4:10
to the ever-busy tasting room. This place really packs 'em in. I'd have
to rank this place as probably the busiest in the area, or at least it
seems that way every time we're there. Got a bit jostled, but hung in
there. One out-of-state group just off to our side appeared quite annoyed,
grumbling aloud about how people wouldn't step back from the tasting bar
so they could step on up. This can be a common problem, especially at
busy tasting rooms. Tasting habits vary; some people like to grab
a taste and roam around the room, while others linger at the bar, discuss
the wine, and move on through the tasting order. Still others camp out
at the tasting bar way too long. Unfortunately, since there's no
clearly defined "policy" in this regard, much of what one encounters will
depend on someone's sense of etiquette. Poured 5 wines N/C. Out at 4:50. Tasted at Wild Horse: Vintage Wine EA MP 1994 Pinot Noir B+ B+ 1994 Merlot A- B- 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon B B NV Claret B B 1994 Syrah B+ B Dinner at Far West Tavern in Guadalupe. Lukewarm recommendation. Good
totals for the day: 8 wineries, 34 wines. Left Santa Maria at 9:10, and headed back up to the Edna Valley area.
Arrived early at 9:40 for the 10:00 opening of Edna Valley Vineyards.
Pouring 5 N/C, found some nice surprises. Friendly crew, and we pretty
much had the place to ourselves. Out at 10:25. Tasted at Edna Valley: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Sauvignon Blanc B+ B+ 1995 Chardonnay - Paragon Vnyd B B+ 1994 Vin Rouge B+ A- 1993 Pinot Noir A- B+ 1995 Muscat Canelli B+ A- Headed for Talley / Saucelito Canyon. This is one of the most
idyllic spots in the Central Coast. Just outside of Arroyo Grande, the
tasting room and offices of Talley Vineyards are set in a lovely Victorian
redux sitting atop a knoll in the quiet valley. Arrived at 10:35 to quiet
room. Considering the size of the room, a half-dozen people would have
been a crowd. The tasting room has an arrangement with Saucelito Cyn Vineyards
to pour the latter's wines. Friendly gentleman doing the pouring of 4
Talley and 2 Saucelito wines at N/C. Out at 11:10. Tasted at Talley: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Chardonnay - Oliver's Vnyd B+ A- 1994 Chardonnay - Estate A- A- 1994 Pinot Noir B+ B 1995 White Riesling B+ B Tasted at Saucelito Canyon: Vintage Wine EA MP 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon B+ B 1995 Zinfandel A- B+ Arrived at 11:40 at Cottonwood Canyon in the Santa Maria Valley.
Deadsville! Nice new room, and here was this lonely staffer just itching
to wait on somebody. Poured 5 from list for $3.50. Wines were interesting,
if a bit overpriced. A huge pit just behind the tasting room, we were
informed, was the beginning of their cave. Yet another cave. Out at 12:10. Tasted at Cottonwood Canyon: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Chardonnay - Bistro Classic B B- 1991 Chardonnay - Estate B B- 1990 Chardonnay - Barrel Select B B- 1990 Pinot Noir - Lot 2 A- C 1991 Pinot Noir - Sierra Madre Vnyd B+ C Arrived at Byron at 12:15. Moderate number of people in this small
room, but staff was very friendly and attentive. Always very good wines.
Poured 5 at N/C. Tailgated lunch, and out at 1:15. Tasted at Byron: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Sauvignon Blanc A- A- 1995 Chardonnay A- A- 1994 Chardonnay - Reserve A- A- 1994 Pinot Noir B+ B 1993 Pinot Noir A- B Arrived at Rancho Sisquoc at 1:25 to semi-busy room. Lovely setting
deep in a canyon. Ranch origins very much in evidence in the appearance
of the tasting room and out-buildings. Pouring entire list of 7-8 wines,
we chose to taste 3 from the list. Out at 1:45. Tasted at Rancho Sisquoc: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Sylvaner Riesling B+ B 1994 Merlot B+ B+ 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon B+ B Arrived at Foxen at 1:55 to, can you believe it, a quiet
room! It's been a long time since we were fortunate enough to arrive between
the regular weekend onslaughts, rather than during them. Pouring
5 N/C. A group of 4 arrived shortly after us, so we decided to move along
before it got real busy. Out at 2:15. Tasted at Foxen: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Chenin Blanc B+ B+ 1995 Chardonnay B B 1994 Chardonnay - Estate B+ B 1995 Pinot Noir A- B+ 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon A- A- Arrived at Bedford Thompson at 2:30. First visit to this winery.
Tasting is done in the front room of older house on Alisos Cyn Road. Pouring
of 3 wines N/C by vineyardist David Thompson. Without really expecting
anything special, we were wowed by some delicious wines. Both the Cab
Franc and Syrah were stunners. As a matter of fact, these two varietals
look to be the future star performers in the area. Out at 2:55. Tasted at Bedford Thompson: Vintage Wine EA MP 1993 Pinot Blanc n/t B+ 1994 Cabernet Franc A- A 1993 Syrah A- A Arrived at Beckmen at 3:10. Site of the former Houtz Winery, this
property was purchased by the Beckmen family in '94. Friendly and knowledgeable
pourer described all the changes that the new owners have made. And, since
she also had worked for the previous proprietor, she had an interesting
perspective. From the vineyards, to the winemaking, to the aging barrels,
everything has been changed - and for the better. For those who have ever
had Houtz wines, the changes to the entire operation will be very evident
in the bottle. It was, uh - interesting, to sample the '93 Cab (which
was in barrel when the new owners took over) against the '94 Cab. Although
the '94 Beckmen has a California appellation, the Houtz is just V-8 by
comparison. On the way out, we ran into Tom Beckmen who was relaxing in
front of the barn-like tasting room. We paid him our compliments on his
winery's efforts thus far, touching especially on the "green" Houtz Cab.
He replied that he felt that Houtz had probably always picked the fruit
too soon, and that he found a little longer hang-time, combined with some
canopy maintenance vastly improved the crop. Sounds so simple. Left at
3:45. Tasted at Beckmen: Vintage Wine EA MP 1994 Sauvignon Blanc A- A- 1994 Select White B B- 1994 Chardonnay B B+ 1995 Grenache A- B 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon (Houtz) C+ C 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon B+ B 1994 Atelier - Red Meritage B+ B+ Arrived at Gainey at 3:55 to busy room. Been a while since we've
been here. Same arrangement of two tastings, 6 or 9 wines. Friendly pourer
was encouraging everyone to consider membership in the Gainey wine club,
a winery-direct mailing program in which the winery ships a specified
number of bottles at routine intervals, and charges your credit card accordingly.
This is becoming commonplace for wineries, as they attempt to increase
retail sales through direct marketing. Tasted 6 at $3.50 incl glass. Out
at 4:35. Tasted at Gainey: Vintage Wine EA MP 1995 Sauvignon Blanc B+ n/t 1994 Pinot Noir B+ B 1994 Pinot Noir - Sanford/Benedict Vnyd B B+ 1994 Merlot B B+ 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon B B- 1995 Riesling A- B Dinner at Hitching Post in Buellton. Highly recommended. Good totals
for the day: 9 wineries, 45 wines. Total for the trip: 24 wineries, 119
wines.
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- Eric Anderson
